Lincoln to Ovando

Strava: 61.7 km, 676m, 3:33, 139 shifts, 42 kph max

Finally a night of over eight hours of solid sleep! I woke up at 7 momentarily worried I overslept then remembered the plan to get to the grocery store after it opened at 8.

We packed up and hit the oldest restaurant in town for breakfast. My veggie skillet was almost more than I could eat. I really wonder how normal people who aren’t riding all day can eat these meals.

We bought groceries at the store for tomorrow, then went back to the Three Bears Inn to finish getting ready. We had a last stop for coffee then headed out of town. Very quickly we were on a dirt road, headed up hill. Sounds like every day. But our 40th stage was an easy one. We climbed 300m, not too steep, then some more past a gorgeous lake. We diverted to it and Wytze and Daniel had a swim. Then down a long way. We talked to some SOBO riders and were passed by a bunch of motorcycles.

We hit the valley and had 25 km of easy cruising with a little headwind to Ovando. We pulled into the Blackfoot Commercial and Ovando Inn and checked in. The Switzerland/Columbia world cup game was on so we got ice cream and drinks to watch. It went to penalty kicks but Switzerland won in the end. Another NOBO rider we met who started six days after us said he’d been hearing about us for the whole ride.

After showers and laundry Daniel disappeared into the small inn store and bought everything we needed for dinner, since Tuesday night is the one night in Ovando when neither restaurant is open.

We started with cheese and crackers with California champagne, outside. We all helped with preparations. Dinner was inside: farfalle with a delicious tomato based sauce Daniel made and tomato, cucumber, yellow pepper and feta salad Wytze made. With Chilean red wine. Wow, what a feast!

Wytze entertained us by delivering 15 gallons of ice cream from the kitchen to the living room, “Here’s dessert boys!” Real dessert was ice cream sandwiches and fancy caramels.

It was a wonderful, easy day of cycling, a lot of fun. Near Ovando we talked to a team of four guys like us, one from California, two from Denmark and one from Ohio. When they said they were on day nine it really struck me that the end is in sight.

Helena to Lincoln

Strava: 104 km, 1899m, 7:08, 251 shifts, 47 kph max

I didn’t sleep well again, I guess not enough exercise! We got up at 6:30, same hotel breakfast at 7, then headed out. Our first stop was a bakery/coffee shop for a little more breakfast with drinks.

We rolled out of Helena on route 12 to the west, mellow traffic to the turnoff onto Priest Pass gravel road at 18 km. It was much cooler today, with clouds. We took a break and a local drove up to check on his nice looking mule that was all alone in the field. But first he presented us each with a bag of hard candy and gave us advice about the route. Nice!

It was a steep climb, over 500m up, with I think the guy called it “tank tracks”. Deep eroded slippery ruts. All rideable though. On top we regrouped and had first lunch.

Next up was a long section of up and down, some very steep and strenuous. We had more lunch on the top, then headed down about 20 km to the famous Llama Ranch. The descent was fun and we were welcomed by one of the owners of the ranch. There is free lodging, food and beer. After partaking, we asked if we could make a donation, but absolutely not. “Just pay it forward.” He tried to get us to stay but it was only 2:15 and we had a reservation in Lincoln.

So up the final hill we went. This climb was about 700m and had some steep parts at the top. To make it harder the clouds parted letting the sun shine at full strength for a while. But if you start, and keep going, you get to the top. I was really sweaty but made it up. After regrouping, we started the 26 km descent. The first part was very rough and slow but after a while the gravel became smooth and fast. I caught up to Wytze and we rode to Lincoln together.

We checked in at the Three Bears Motel, then the others arrived. I was so salty! The shower felt great and we did hand washed laundry too. We walked to dinner, checking out some better but closed places and eventually ate next door at the Wheel Inn Tavern. All they had was fried food but we were starving and that was the option. At least they had decent draft IPA. The waitress was funny and kind. We had cheese curds, fried pickles and fried everything else. Lots of lemonade too. We watched the US lose to Belgium in the World Cup, then headed home. Wytze got us Ben & Jerry’s ice cream for dessert and we worked on the route more. Then time for sleep! 💤

July 5, 2026 was our fifth rest day. 

We stayed in Helena, the capital of Montana. We’ve ridden almost 3400 km and climbed over 40,000m. The end in Banff is in sight but we’re not there yet.

We had the hotel breakfast at 8, then did laundry. I was glad to have an actual washing machine because the last time I hand washed no matter how many times I squeezed and rinsed, brown water always seemed to come out of my riding clothes!

After that we walked to the nearby State Capitol. Everything seemed sleepy and quiet on Sunday morning. The Capitol was open but didn’t have guided tours. The building is really impressive, especially from the inside. Mining must’ve really generated a lot of money back in 1889 when Montana became the 41st state! We marvelled at the art work and checked out the Senate and House chambers.

Then we continued to downtown and had lunch at Ten Mile Creek Brewery. Beer, salads and a delicious pizza to share. After that, I was feeling a nap coming on so we ubered back. I know I was not the only one snoozing!

I booked us the next two nights in motels along the route and we started working on our stay in Banff and a shuttle to the Calgary airport.

For dinner we ubered back downtown to find the fancy Italian restaurant we picked out was full. We walked down to a steak house and got a table outside. We all had tasty arugula and mushroom salads and I had a lentil dish with a ton of lion’s mane mushrooms! I had been wanting to try these for a long time. Just delicious! We had various beers and then walked up the street to the ice cream shop. After a giant double cone of huckleberry and espresso/heathbar, we headed home. I had a nice call with Beau then got ready for sleep. A side benefit of hard biking trips is definitely the food!

Butte to Helena on the 4th of July

Strava: 129.9 km, 2076m, 8:19, 388 shifts, 56 kph max

After a not so good sleep, we were up at 6:30, breakfast at 7 in the hotel. We packed as much as we could from breakfast because we knew it was a big ride today. We rode up to the top of Butte first, not a small climb. It was very quiet but we passed chairs people had put out on the parade route and we also rode through the farmer’s market just setting up.

Out of town the roads wound up and down, very scenic. Finally they turned to dirt and we did a pretty big climb. But the reward was a great descent, down to our friend interstate 15. We took the unpaved frontage road to the town of Basin, and diverted to the saloon/restaurant for lunch. We could still order breakfast so Wytze and I both had stacks of buttermilk pancakes in honor of the 4th. Lots of drinks were had and the owner took our picture for the GDMBR Facebook page. She knew the exact mileage left to Banff 637.3 miles I think).

After lunch we had a series of three climbs. The first was the longest and highest and hit 18%, a record. Lots of concentration required and some sections looked unrideable but were all doable. The descent was pretty crazy but rideable (I think we all had to put a foot down once or twice). Super steep and rocky. I felt sorry for the riders we saw pushing up; it did not look fun.

We regrouped at the start of the second climb. Smaller = easier I thought. But not. Pretty soon, my record of no hike-a-bike on the Great Divide was broken. We all walked and pushed. It was not rideable with loaded bikes, at least by us after 90 km of hard riding. Later I walked a second time but that was probably just mental weakness as Wytze would say.

At least the second descent was smooth and fast unlike the first one. The final climb was surprisingly tame, no problem there. The eight km of climb was really only two km of steep. And the descent to Helena was fast and smooth. We regrouped at the edge of town then rode to the hotel. The streets were oddly deserted, after 6 pm on July 4.

We checked in and the shower was so great. I was caked with salt and dust. We inhaled sodas on checking in, so good. The temperature was over 30°C, quite a change from a few days ago!

At 7:30 we headed out by Uber to a Mediterranean restaurant across town. We went big with Daniel choosing all the appetizers and main dishes. With a liter bottle of fancy French white wine… So good! We shared everything and then shared four desserts. The upshot was that they measured up to the typical desserts in Italy.

We ubered back seeing a few fireworks but no one was in a mood to try and see more. It was after 10 and time for bed. Big day, big fun!

Wise River to Butte

Strava: 82.1 km, 977m, 4:19, 258 shifts, 56 kph max

There were eight cyclists in the Community Center but I didn’t even need ear plugs. I was out like a light. Everyone seemed to get up a little after 6. My breakfast was a couple of bean & cheese burritos plus a muffin. I made lunch to carry, English Muffin with pepper jack cheese.

We packed up and were first to leave, with Neill, but he inexplicably dropped behind and didn’t ride with us. We powered down the valley, skipping the turn onto the trail to the infamous Fleecer Ridge. We had decided to do the “Divide Alternative” instead, and rode 20 km to the tiny town of Divide.

What we missed could arguably be called a highlight of the GDMBR, but then again maybe not. It is a long, very rocky 30%[!] grade that is so steep that many people can’t push their loaded bikes up, and no one can ride up it. People take their bags up first, then return for their bikes. Descending it (for SOBO riders) is super dangerous and most people walk. Anyway, like many others we took the alternative.

From Divide we took highway 91, a frontage road to Interstate 15. It was pretty with no traffic and you could rarely even see the interstate. But it wasn’t too long before we met our track again and headed off on dirt, under the interstate then up a five km 440m climb. The bottom part maxed out at 16% and the top at 17%, wow! I was sweating a lot but cranked it out in one push. We had second breakfast or first lunch on top, gorgeous with flowers everywhere and nice views.

There was another 300m to climb but it was in short sections and not super steep. It was really pleasant riding eventually coming out on a paved road. We saw more and more houses and ranches, then surprisingly headed back onto dirt. Then onto an excellent singletrack section! It turned out we rode through a mountain bike park, 3500 acres with over 40 km of trails. It was wonderful swooping up and down, over rocks, generally downhill so very easy. Some sections were technical and required care and balance. We saw a few unburdened riders plus a number of SOBO riders bound for Antelope Wells.

We left the park via a fast, paved descent, then the route headed into the big city of Butte, population almost 35,000, our biggest city on the tour so far. We cruised to the hotel and arrived at 1:30. The rooms weren’t ready yet so we had drinks next door at a coffee shop. Wytze went off to the bike shop where he found Neill with a broken back wheel. The rest of us checked in and enjoyed what I think was the best shower yet on the trip.

Andrew and I worked on flights in the afternoon and booked our return flight from Calgary. After Wytze got back from the bike shop, we ubered downtown to an Italian restaurant Daniel picked out. Unfortunately when we got there it was closed for the 4th of July. We walked a couple of blocks and found the most amazing place called Shawn O’Donnell’s American Grill and Irish Pub. It was about 20 minutes wait but then the most amazing dinner. They had a printer that prints cool images like the Statue of Liberty on the foam of your Guinness! We had many drinks, delicious food and shared bread pudding for dessert.

We ubered home after checking out a little more of downtown Butte. We committed to riding to Helena tomorrow by booking a couple of nights there. I hope we haven’t bitten off more than we can chew. It’s a big ride!

35: Lima to Bannack

Strava: 79.2 km, 294m, 3:22, 91 shifts, 56.4 kph max

36: Bannack to Wise River

Strava: 89.5 km, 910m, 4:07, 194 shifts, 66.6 kph max

With better, warmer weather, packing up to leave at 6:30 seemed great. We had breakfast from Janzz Java then headed north on an alternate route we cooked up. Near the interstate there is the old highway we took. It was such a contrast from our previous two rainy cold stages, it was hard to believe. Gentle tailwind, in the sun, no traffic, perfect!

We stopped before 15 km at Dell, population 35. The store there has lots of good stuff and we made the owner happy. We had second breakfast outside then continued north.

Soon we were on gravel again, then met up with the route again. As we rejoined, we met Luke again, and he rode with us a ways. We turned on the dirt road to Bannack and Luke left us behind as we stopped at an irresistible lawn with shade trees. We had first lunch there, then all fell asleep. We were officially waiting for a big dark storm to pass ahead of us but actually just lazy.

We finally got up and going again, with only 17 km to go, when we noticed a second even worse looking storm coming. It was dumping rain just south and west of us. It got darker but the wind was from behind. Every time the big drops started falling, I cranked harder to get ahead. The whole section must’ve been slightly downhill too because I cruised the whole thing at 40-55 kph. It started hailing slightly, just as Daniel, Wytze and I ducked under the deck of a house at the corner. We high-fived and immediately the noise was deafening! The hail blasted down so hard. Andrew was caught in it but he’s tough so no worries (easy for me to say…)

We all waited it out for 20 minutes then headed up to the campground. We staked out a nice site right next to the river and set up tents. It was early so we spent a couple of hours checking out the ghost town in Bannack State Park, an easy walk from the campground.

We walked back and cooked dinner. It was our tried and true recipe: 16 servings of instant mashed potatoes with a lot of tuna. It started raining a little while we ate so we went to bed pretty early. With no internet I read a little then fell asleep listening to the gurgling river and the pattering rain. I’m reading George Orwell’s Burmese Days.

It rained in the night and it may have been our wettest packing up in the morning. We had oatmeal and English Muffins with cheese for breakfast and got rolling at 8 am. We rode down to the road we came in on beating the hailstorm yesterday but turned right, onto the paved section. It was cool and pleasant riding, with a stop for second breakfast around 30 km, just at the start of a large climb.

We headed off route after a few km to explore Elkhorn Hot Springs. That turned out to be a great stop. They have two pools, both very large and warm. I even got a hazy IPA on draft then we borrowed swim trunks and towels. It was really relaxing and fun. We chatted with quite a few SOBO riders, one said he felt like turning around and going back to Banff – because he loved it so much and thought that it couldn’t be as awesome if he continued south. We liked that!

After a couple of hours we headed on, taking a shortcut up a very steep dirt road climbing a couple hundred meters which eventually joined the paved road just past the big climb. From the summit we had a mostly downhill cruise, about 45 km, to Wise River.

Wytze and I pulled in straight to the “World Famous Wise River Club”, a saloon and hotel. The service was slow but we had a few rounds of drinks and some food. We were joined by Neill, Daniel and Andrew and left after 3. We all rode to the Mercantile where they explained how the Community Center across the street works. $20 donation, nice setup, reminiscent of our first night in Hachita. We were first so got our choices of cots and pads.

No shower but we were clean from the hot springs. We bought breakfast foods from the Mercantile and relaxed as more and more cyclists showed up. They say 2500 cyclists stay here per year. The town population is under 50.

Around 7 we walked over to the Wise River Club for dinner with Neill and a SOBO Swiss guy, Chris. Had a nice, relaxed dinner, arriving back at “home” after 9 pm. Just another great day on the Great Divide!

June 30, 2026 was our fourth rest day.

After ten days riding in a row from Rawlins, and with the weather still cold and rain in the forecast, it was a no-brainer to stop for a rest day in Lima. It’s a tiny town but the Beaverhead Inn is a great place to rest and recharge.

We’ve now ridden 3000 km / 1864 miles and climbed 36,400m / 119,500′. We worked out how to get to the big city of Butte in a few days. From Lima, we’ll be taking an alternate route to avoid mud. We’re averaging 88 km per riding day, 79 km per day. Right on target!

We had drinks and muffins from the coffee shop which is tiny, and like last night’s food truck, is in the Beaverhead Inn parking lot. We sat outside but it was really too cold to enjoy.

We worked on bike stuff, and I talked to Neill who we rode with yesterday. We found that we had raced together in his home town back in 2004 in the Red Bull Mountain Mayhem 24 hour mountain bike (unicycle) race at Eastnor Castle in Malvern Hills, England. Small world.

There was a short period midday when the weather warmed up and we sat outside having pie and drinks. There was also some awesomely powerful thunder but little actual rain.

I think some naps occurred after that, then we shopped for beer and snacks for our afternoon movie, Bank of Dave 2, not as good as the original. I wanted to try the third little shop in the parking lot, a fancy ice cream vendor, but never made it happen.

After a nice video chat with Katie, we had about the same parking lot food truck dinner as last night, again with some extra snacks and drinks from the gas station store. Tonight’s movie was a wild one, Dogville. It’s long and as they say, “controversial and experimental.”

Red Hawk Lodge to Lima

Strava: 67.2 km, 415m, 3:53, 141 shifts, 37.3 kph max, all in rain

The somewhat unseasonably cold weather continues. Montana is giving us a “tough love” welcome. We had a relaxing big breakfast at the Red Hawk Lodge, eggs and unlimited pancakes. It was raining so no one was in a hurry but somehow by 10 am we were packed and heading out.

The wind was from the side and as soon as we hit the main road, the light rain increased to more serious. The road seemed just as muddy and crappy as yesterday. The first 28 km was pretty constant, a little up or down, some parts very muddy, a few parts relatively less so. We passed the guy who didn’t make it to the lodge the night before, he had camped and was pretending to be cheerful.

At the junction we easily chose the “shortcut route”, after hearing from multiple riders the main route had a long section of unrideable peanut butter mud. We had 17 more km of mud to the highway and passed a cyclist who confirmed this was the way and riding the Interstate is basically required. Now after more than two hours of rain, cold water was seeping through my shoes, down my legs, etc. We had a climb, then coasted down to the Interstate 15 on-ramp.

We headed onto the highway and traffic was generally polite. A guy I talked to later who drove past us said we looked great, all in a group with high-viz colors. He said he knew that desperate times called for desperate measures. We were joined by a Brit, Neill, for the 24 km on the highway to Lima (LeyeMuh, not like the Peruvian city). No close calls, just mentally challenging I would say. And wet and cold. Andrew said today was the worst conditions he’s ever ridden in, and that’s saying a lot.

I was very very happy when the Lima exit finally appeared. We stopped at the gas station and wandered around in the store but didn’t buy anything. I got my phone dried and working and found the Beaverhead Inn I had booked two nights in was right across the street. I guess that’s not surprising since Lima is very small (population 212).

We checked in and our host made us coffee and chocolate and we ate a couple of apple pies. We washed our bikes and bags off with the hose, then worked on our clothes. They have laundry service here but we had to first scrape off as much mud as possible then wash the outer clothes in the shower. The hot shower felt amazing. My legs were so pink. All day it was 2-4°C.

When I went to Wytze and Daniel’s room to collect their laundry, they were already in bed. What a day! I’m so glad to be not riding tomorrow since the forecast is for more rain, although a little warmer. I cranked the heater in our room and sprayed the mud off my shoes with the hose. Chores are done ✅

Naps were definitely taken then it was time for dinner. Unfortunately in the beginning of the week there is only one option in town. But luckily it’s a very nice lady with her food truck in the Beaverhead Inn parking lot! We picked up dinner there while Daniel and Wytze bought drinks and snacks and dessert at the gas station store.

We retired to their suite and ate while watching an inspiring movie based on a true story, The Bank of Dave.

Another milestone today: we have ridden 3000.06 km in our 34 stages since Antelope Wells! Approx 1400 km remain to Banff.

Island Park, Idaho to Montana

Strava: 55.7 km, 523m, 3:34, 124 shifts, 44.1 kph max, all in rain

It was very nice sleeping in again. We got up around 8:30 and had the hotel breakfast, packed up, then procrastinated until 10:30 when the rain was supposed to be lighter. Daniel bought plastic wrap and he and Andrew used it experimentally on their shoes. I tried a plastic bag inside each sock.

Finally we couldn’t put it off any longer and set out in light rain, temperature 3°C. We had a little pavement then turned off on a rough 4wd track with gigantic puddles. Going around the first puddle I found it so deep that one foot went all the way underwater so the plastic bag experiment was off on that foot. Soon we went through a gate that said ‘Road Closed’ and the trial became rougher. But we had seen two riders coming the opposite way and there were only two tracks visible so it appeared they had made it through. When the puddles covered 100% of the width and you had to ride through it was exciting because it might be shallow or very deep.

After a while there was another short paved section but it ended and we were back on gravel. The climb to Red Rock Pass wasn’t too bad but just then it was quite rainy and cold. At the top we crossed the Continental Divide yet again and entered our last state, Montana. Welcome to Montana, there’s a winter weather warning in late June and it’s snowing just a tiny bit above the pass where it’s 2°!

Just down a little we met some riders who were coming from the Red Hawk Lodge where I had booked us a room. They confirmed the distance and that it was good.

The last 28 km from the pass was pretty trying, between the rain, cold temps and the strong headwind. I was thinking how amazingly much the road to Banff varies from Antelope Wells to Montana. “Hey Andrew, remember how hot it was at the end of the first day? Not like that here, eh?” The km counter did its thing and eventually we rode up the lodge road. I learned a new advantage of electronic shifting: when your hands are numb it’s still relatively easy to shift!

The owner had warned us that they’d probably still be in town when we arrived but said to go on in and described how to find our room upstairs. First we found a hose and washed off the bikes and bags. So muddy. My foot that didn’t get submerged was surprisingly dry. Then we relaxed inside in the warm with our outer clothes drying on a rack. The owners arrived after a couple of hours and are really nice people.

After naps and more conversation it was dinner time. We ate Taco Salad with Mel and Jeanette, the owners. After we finished a pair of SOBO riders appeared and had dinner too. Mel has lived here many decades and told us lots of stories and interesting info about the local grizzlies, moose, wolves etc. There’s been a wildlife refuge here since 1935.

We did some planning and I booked us two nights in Lima. Rest day here we come. From the weather forecast, tomorrow looks like another day where we should not leave early. So we stayed up past 9:30 pm and can sleep in!

Squirrel Creek Elk Ranch to Island Park

Strava: 71.6 km, 656m, 4:17, 160 shifts, 56.3 kph max

I had my ear plugs in all night so as not to hear the rain or Andrew snoring. I didn’t wake up until 7:30! Over 10 hours of sleep! Soon after I woke up there was a brief but strong thunderstorm. We went to breakfast at 8:30 and finally left, in full rain gear, at 9:45.

It only rained a little as we cruised the paved road, then turned onto dirt after seven km. After a climb we descended to Warm River Campground, then headed up the rail trail in rain. At the start we saw a very fresh bear claw print so I enabled my bell.

The rain mostly stopped as we climbed the consistent grade. It was a very narrow double track, pretty and fun for a change. After 20 km of the rail trail we stopped to take off jackets and talk to a somewhat overwhelmed Tour Divide racer. He had even had a day of negative progress due to an extreme navigation error. He will not make it in a month, that’s for sure.

We had another 15 km of dirt roads, off and on rain, and a little hail. We came out on a highway, US 20, which we took to a gas station/restaurant. We went in for lunch but only had drinks, deciding to eat at the next restaurant, the last on our route. We were planning on staying at a campground around 90 km. We headed north to the next restaurant, staying on the highway to save about 10 km. The shoulder was narrow but the cars and trucks were kind. As we pulled into the restaurant, that second a deluge started. Incredibly good timing. The shortcut was so worth it.

We had a delicious lunch and I found a lodge we had missed on the map previously. I called and made a reservation for tomorrow after Wytze rented us a room at the Sawtelle Mountain Resort across the street. Who says we have to camp in the rain? It’s good to be flexible.

We checked in and got clean. Wytze bought us wine, cheese, chips, salsa, grapes, crackers and hummus. The room is spacious and nice and I guess we’re getting used to sharing queen sized beds now. Our dinner party ended before 7, lightweights.

The weather forecast is bad for tomorrow but we’ll survive I’m sure.