Steamboat Springs to Brush Mountain Lodge

Strava: 80.3 km, 1420m, 6:06,  334 shifts, 45 kph max

Somehow, even after a good sleep I woke up tired and not psyched. My earplugs worked perfectly, blocking out the A/C (actually just a fan) as well as any possible snoring. Andrew and I were up at 6, and packed before 7, and had to say “chop chop” to the other room. Eventually we were all set and rode across the street to the Creekside Café for breakfast.

It was finally time to try Eggs Benedict, with more options than our feeble minds could comprehend. Our waitress had six years experience and was “absolutely” a morning person. The other guys impressions of her were so priceless I almost died. We decided we should build an app that asks you what you want for breakfast. Whatever you say, it keeps asking more questions about more options you don’t want and never thought of. It never stops.

It was quite delicious and relaxing but we finally had to roll. The ride to the tiny town of Clark was 30 km, paved almost all the way. Andrew said it was “Just what the doctor ordered”. Tailwind, small climbs, polite drivers, and beautiful. When I arrived I was tired though and fell asleep on a bench in the store’s garden. We reprovisioned at the store, buying dinner for two days from now when we’ll be camping in Wyoming. We also had drinks and snacks.

Loaded up we started up the unpaved road toward the pass which was our big challenge for today. After some warmup up/down, the climb started for real. 10.5 km to climb 700m or something but it took almost two hours. We had to ride around a Road Closed gate, then up the rocky, steep 4wd track. It was so rocky that I surprised myself making sections that looked unrideable. I’m sure we’ll be hike-a-biking at some point but that point has not come yet. It’s all about relaxing and maintaining plenty of extra reserve power to give a burst when needed – typically when your concentration lapses and you pick a less than perfect line. Anyway it was an amazing ride; I am so glad we didn’t take the alternative route. It was the least boring/most interesting climb I’ve had yet. I found out the Tour Divide race no longer gets to do this route, for various reasons which seems sad.

We finally topped out at 3000m, in beautiful trees, swaying in strong wind. We had snacks then when Andrew arrived a little later, he found the three of us asleep on grassy patches between trees.

Finally we started down, 25 km to go. Andrew led down, exactly the same super rough and steep rocks we had been riding up on the other side. But it only lasted a couple of km, then we popped out of the Forest into high plains. But the wind was no longer stopped by the trees and it was dead in our faces for the remainder of the day. It went on and on and boy was I glad to get to Brush Mountain.

The owner, Kirsten, has built the most perfect lodge and haven for cyclists. She’s run it for 20 years, has wintered here three times and is a wonderful person. We inhaled many cold drinks including hazy IPA, got a cabin with five beds and had fantastic showers. Of course we did laundry and “bike love” too.

We had a while to relax since Kirsten was waiting for three more NOBO riders before serving dinner. So there were seven of us, eating together and talking about the Tour Divide race because the leader, a young Frenchman with a 200 mile lead over second place [!] was nearing the WY/CO border and that is only 20 km from here.

Good night for the last time from Colorado on this trip.

Radium campground to Steamboat Springs

Strava: 96.59 km, 1494m, 6:22, 330 shifts, 57.7 kph max

This was the fourth kind of hard day in a row. After breakfast the sun came out and we started climbing immediately. It was about 16 km to climb 950m so tackling it first thing in the morning was perfect. From the camp it was up up up at 10-13%. For a long time. 

After the first two sections of climbing we stopped for brunch, then back at it. The last one… 17%, a new record on this trip – phew.

After that it got easier but we still had almost 80 km to go. Up and down, past a lot of ranches. As we got to a reservoir, we turned onto the first single-track of the trip. It wasn’t technical and only lasted 2.5 km, but was fun. We had a stream crossing that got our feet wet and was an opportunity for swimming, and another at the reservoir.

Then a last 30 km to town, the last bit on paved road. When we got to the bike path, five km from Steamboat Springs we needed a break. I booked us rooms while Wytze and Daniel bought a six-pack of cold hazy IPA and snacks. We sat in the shade and inhaled all that. I got to video chat with many family members having a get together in Redwood City. To be in two places at the same time …

Finally it was five km on a gorgeous bike path and we were suddenly checking in to the Nordic Lodge. We locked up our bikes outside and had heavenly showers. I had another video chat then it was dinner time. Daniel found an Indian Restaurant a block away and we ordered massively. We could almost eat everything… We planned out the route to Rawlins, WY, opting for 2.5 days for the 220 km. Then it was time for another huge sleep. That is our life.

Silverthorne to Radium Campground

Strava: 115.5 km, 1250m, 6:19, 308 shifts, 79.5 kph max – unpaved!

Due to our really hot room, I didn’t sleep well and was not psyched for riding in the morning. We packed up and rode over to a coffee shop for breakfast and takeout lunch. That was pretty nice and I left my one star review of the hotel.

We rolled out on bike paths, then continued downhill on route 9. After 21 easy km, we turned off on the Ute Pass Road, surprisingly also paved. The climb was not so steep or long and soon we were on top loving the scenery.

The descent was fast and soon the road turned to dirt, really just unpaved I should say. It was smooth and washboard-free, sort of oiled. We took it a long way, generally downhill but with lots of short climbs. Around a reservoir and then we came out at the highway at about 85 km around noon.

We decided to detour off route into Kremmling for lunch and supplies and then continue on to the first campsite en route to Steamboat Springs, about 120 km away. That way we could make it there the next night and only camp once.

The detour was quick and we stopped at the first restaurant we saw, a Mexican one with three bikes in front. We talked with the SOBO trio who had just come from our target, Radium Campground. They told us about the water and the road condition and we told them about the route to Silverthorne.

While we were eating one of the guys mentioned to me that my back axle was partially unscrewed. Now the shifting and slight brake rubbing problems were explained! I went outside and sure enough it was loose. The mechanics in Salida forgot to tighten it and it lasted quite a way but was no match for the continuous washboard. I fixed it quickly – lesson learned.

Then Wytze volunteered to do the shopping while we relaxed at a Coffee/Ice cream place. We took that offer for sure! Andrew and I enjoyed root beer floats and Daniel had a nap on a bench. Wytze returned soon with dinner and food for tomorrow, and even a bottle of Malbec from Mendoza strapped to his frame where a water bottle normally goes!

We shared out the groceries and headed back onto the track. We had 30 km with 500m of climbing left and it went well. 11 of my 12 gears worked perfectly, not sure what’s up with the 42 (second gear). The initial climb was hot and steep but then the route changed enormously. We went over a pass we barely noticed then were on a fancy road (even paved for a little while), looking down at a beautiful gorge with the Colorado River and the Amtrak tracks. We stopped at “Inspiration Point” for photos.

Then more descent, another climb, then a final super fast descent on unpaved road, but smooth enough to hit 80 kph, unheard of! The gusty wind slowed me a little but boy did that feel great!

We had a last four km to the campground, right on the Colorado River. It was “reservation only”, but almost empty of people so we just paid and occupied a site by the river. Tents up, we settled in to dinner. We filtered about eight liters of Colorado River water.

Dinner was two liters of Broccoli/Cheddar soup followed by a cheese platter even Ype would be proud of. The Malbec was delicious and reminded Andrew, Wytze and I of the amazing days we spent in Mendoza in 2019. After dinner it was 7:30, our usual bedtime (we’re such party animals!) but the very loud generator across the river was still going. Luckily it stopped soon and we settled down for another long night of sleep. I tried but failed to read first…

Hartsel to Silverthorne

Strava: 110 km, 1265m, 6:31,  277 shifts, 58.6 kph max

We got up before 6 and packed up in the barn. I slept at least 9 hours maybe more. We could hear the wind howling outside but the Windy app told me it was in a favorable direction.

Breakfast was yogurt, fruit and granola in large enough quantities that we all stuck our breakfast burritos into our jersey pockets for lunch (adding to the leftover pizza). We headed out in cold temps, very cloudy, very windy. But the rain held off and we just kept going up and down the dirt roads. After maybe 40 km we stopped at a fire station and they offered water and cookies. Very friendly guys.

Then we rode to the historic town of Como, and checked out their post office with its free stuff shelf. Andrew added a jar of peanut butter he was tired of carrying.

Then the main event of the day: climbing Boreas Pass. It was only 14 km with 600m climbing and started out pretty nicely. But as we got higher, the headwind got stronger and the road surface got rougher. We had a little rain but not much. Up at 3500m at the summit, it was somewhat hard. We had pizza and burritos on top. Boreas Pass is the second highest pass on the whole Great Divide, after Indiana Pass that we crossed a few days ago. So everything should be easier from here?

The descent was relatively easy, coasting a long way, eventually onto a paved road. We took that switchbacking down to Breckenridge. Then more paved roads to a large system of bike paths we took to Frisco (coffee/ice cream stop), then finally to Silverthorne where we had booked a room.

We checked into the Block Hotel [Never make the mistake we did; stay somewhere else!], and right away I rode with Wytze to a bike shop. I needed some shifting adjustment and he needed some tire sealant. No luck for me but at the second store I got replacement sunglasses for the ones I lost in Salida. Sunday evening is definitely not the time to try and get your bike fixed.

After showers we sat outside the hotel with delicious hazy IPA and listened to some live music until it was time for dinner. We walked across the river to a great Italian restaurant and went big again! Many appetizers, then family style salad and penne alla Vodka. And the inevitable desserts and Amaro. Another typical kinda hard but super fun day on the Great Divide. It’s the day we hit 1000 miles too.

Now it’s midnight and our room at the Block Hotel is uninhabitable. Unbearably hot, windows don’t open, A/C 100% non-functional, staff don’t care. Should not be open for business.

Salida to Hartsel

Strava: 83.6 km, 1349m, 6:10, 224 Shifts, 50 kph max

Today the forecast was quite favorable with the strong winds of yesterday reducing. We ate up leftovers like yogurt, granola, fruit and a little of the pizza, packed up and said goodbye to our wonderful host in Salida, Liz. She was paying forward a ton of kindness and help she got from a cyclist last week. Now it’s on us to pay it forward to someone else.

We rode downtown to the coffee shop and had drinks and pastries. Then up the hill. The route starts out paved but quickly becomes gravel, but very smooth. We did the entire 800m climb in one push then had a break. There was another climb soon, and then we were up around 3000m again.

The scenery always changes, this time all the trees disappeared and we were just riding along next to fields. But always with mountains with some snow visible. Lunch was on top of another climb, Walmart pies and leftover pizza, delicious.

Then on and on, up and down. Most of this section was rough washboard, not really fun to ride. After 35 km of that I was no longer enjoying and just wanted it to be over. Sure enough, Andrew and I came to a pen with Bison (Buffalos) then turned onto a paved road for the last bit to town. The happening place is the gas station in Hartsel because it has a full convenience store. Wytze and Daniel were enjoying drinks, soon we were too, plus ice cream.

Then back to the main intersection and back onto the route which conveniently goes past the Hartsel Springs Lodge where I had arranged for us to camp. With a strong tailwind we were there quickly and they showed us the shower in the kitchen we could use, explained breakfast and the camping setup. We get a large barn and indoor camping is encouraged. Wytze and I waded in the river while the others showered.

After we all had showers and did laundry, we hung out in the lodge and they gave us free beer. Then the owner gave us a ride in her Ineos Grenadier to town. There’s only one restaurant, Zuccaro’s, only open a few nights a week but finally timing was in our favor and we had a wonderful Italian dinner: salads, garlic bread, ravioli, tortellini, spaghetti and pizza. Massive and delicious with a good selection of beers. Cannelloni for dessert of course. When I called to see about a pickup she answered, “Hartsel Springs Uber Service…” We got home before 7 and we’re all pretty hammered (not Wytze), and with a bigger day tomorrow, we’re headed for sleep.

June 12, 2026 was our second full rest day.

We’ve ridden 1493 km and climbed 19,336m from the border at Antelope Wells. That’s just over a third of the distance to Banff and about 42% of the climbing. We’re averaging slightly over our goal of 80 km/day not counting zero (rest) days.

It was a great feeling to have the bike shop maintenance done yesterday and laundry too. We planned tomorrow’s ride north then roughly sketched out the next few days after that. Amazingly, the Wyoming border is in our sights.

Wytze and Daniel went shopping in the morning and I got to talk to Katie, my mom, son and sister. Breakfast was yogurt with fruit and toast and eggs that Daniel cooked. The raspberries were so perfect looking that I wondered if they were 3d printed!

Today is also a really special day since it is the “Grand Depart” day for the annual Tour Divide race. You can do it any time, either direction, as an individual time trial, but if you’re racing, the real deal is to start in Banff on the second Friday in June, today. This morning, over 200 racers from over 20 countries started at 7am. You can watch their trackers at bikepacking.com. They are all headed for our starting point, Antelope Wells, NM. It will be exciting to see them come by although we’ll miss many by avoiding riding at night.

While we are aiming to have as much fun as possible and will take about eight weeks, to win the Tour Divide you have to go about four times that speed. It means averaging over 300 km per day, sleeping very little and being tough as nails!

Our host, Liz, who we first met at the Bunkhouse in Pie Town, arrived home in the afternoon and took me to the local pizza place to pick up an order of Take n Bake Pizzas. She invited her cyclist neighbor to join and we had a nice little dinner party. Between the six of us there were lots of interesting biking and other stories. Making connections like this on trips like this is just magic. Thank you Liz for your tremendous hospitality!

Sargents to Salida

Strava: 66.1 km, 768m, 3:54, 53 Shifts, 70.2 kph max

It seemed like none of us slept well. The cabin was too warm or something. Anyway, by 7 when the Trading Post opened, we were packed and ready for breakfast. They don’t serve anything, but we had breakfast burritos warmed up and juice. I had a nice video chat with Katie, back home from Guatemala.

Leaving Sargents, we headed up the dirt road towards Marshall Pass, 25 km away. It was a steady climb, beautiful really, cool and fun. We all did it in one push, a bit over two hours. It was great to be back over 3300m. I talked to a cyclist who had started five days after us – he was young and very strong. We relaxed with snacks from the Trading Post before starting the long descent.

The descent was sometimes smooth, sometimes rocky, but scenic and fun. Eventually we hit a paved highway and took it down to Poncha Springs at 60-70 kph. We stopped at a brewery for refreshment, then rode down the hill a few km to Salida. We are staying at our friend Liz’s house (we met her in Pie Town and again in Grants.) We let ourselves in as she directed and unloaded.

Pretty much right away we headed downtown to the Subculture Bike Shop she recommended. It felt so amazing riding without all the baggage! really nice! We took the bike path a couple of km and spent some time at the bike shop. Andrew’s crank was tightened in 30 seconds. Daniel needed brake pads and his belt lubricated. Wytze needed brake pads and a new Garmin mount. I needed a new derailleur hanger and brake pads. We left the bikes and went to explore the town on foot.

Salida is small but really nice. It’s tourist oriented and we were able to buy a few small things we needed. We had a great lunch and later ice cream. We checked out the river then finally went back to the bike shop. Andrew and Daniel were done first and headed back; Wytze and I followed when our bikes were done. The shop is very professional and has everything you need.

After showers and laundry we ubered downtown for dinner at Shavano. There was one big nice table unoccupied by the window and we moved in. We started by ordering all four appetizers, plus wine and beer and cider. Later we ordered almost all the entrees and sides! By this time the waitress was very happy about her underdressed guests. We progressed to desserts and after dinner drinks for all. Wow we have not done anything like this since Italy in 2024! It is immensely fun to go this big at a really high quality restaurant after so many meals of instant mashed potatoes and tuna.

Salida just got Uber three months ago so we had the same friendly driver on the way home. What a fun day, sort of a rest day but we did climb one major pass. Tremendous shout out to Liz!

16: Del Norte to Luder’s Campground

Strava: 101.9 km, 1754m, 7:22, 223 Shifts, 50.3 kph max

17: Luder’s Campground to Sargents

Strava: 77.8 km, 468m, 3:32, 179 shifts, 65 kph max on gravel

We packed up in our hotel rooms and loaded the bikes downstairs before 7. Right next door was Raisin’ Rye, a great bakery/coffee shop. We had sourdough bagels, pastries and drinks. The weather looked iffy after breakfast and a Harley rider we talked to was staying in town to avoid the forecasted rain.

But we headed out, quickly onto dirt, heading north. We passed a few Great Divide Mountain Bike Route signs, oriented in both directions. Uphill on soft, sandy double track, we had some spitting rain, strong winds, and once I was right in a dust devil, blasting my face and legs with small rocks – had to ride with eyes closed holding my breath. No I did not stop.

Then a big turn and suddenly we’re coasting with a giant tailwind. That lasted a while until a big turn left onto a paved road back into the wind. Uphill, and I had to replace my right shifter battery again, WTF?! It’s got to be a bad batch of batteries. Then a giant hot climb on dirt. We stopped halfway up for lunch. Then another paved section but into brutal wind, all of us sucking Wytze’s wheel for the duration. The sheer amount of time I’ve spent in that exact position in the last seven years …

All that was 85 km of prelude to the main event of the day. A monster climb up to our campground at over 3000m. We got water from people on the highway then headed up the dirt road directly into the wind. I’d rather forget the whole thing I guess. 13 km that took forever. We pulled into the campground, tired, and I was so happy but a little nervous about water. We probably had a liter left between the four of us. Now is a good time to give a big shout out to our friend Kirsten. Andrew, Wytze and I did the whole Andes Trail in South America with her in 2019. She did the SOBO version of this ride last year and her info helped us more than once, like detailing the trick to finding water in Luder’s Campground! Sure enough it worked just as she said.

There is a hidden little spring with cold clear water, although there are some little guys swimming around in it. You can get enough to fill the filter, repeat until done. It was so nice to cook up a big batch of soup, sourdough bread and cheese, then eight servings of mashed potatoes with tuna and garlic sliced up by Andrew. And drink a liter plus each of cold water, vs eat a bar and go to sleep!

For the first time, we’re in bear country here so we hung our food. It was a big day and I fell asleep fast and hard.

I woke up a couple of times in the night super thirsty, almost scary thirsty. But the second time I also had to pee so I guess I’m fine. Up at 6, we had oatmeal with a little banana and granola. We hit the road by 7:30 and what a pleasure that was. Gently downhill, no wind, just beautiful. After a while the wind did kick up, but not too bad.

Just before a short paved section on route 114, a nice lady gave us each a tangerine. Then we had a final 20 km section of dirt, mostly downhill, some super smooth where it felt perfectly safe to let it roll at 65 kph. Then we hit US route 50, and rode it another 20 km to Sargents. The tailwind and nice shoulder made it fine for cycling even though it’s a two lane highway with trucks going 65 mph.

We pulled into Tomichi Trading Post and sat down in the restaurant for lunch. It was a long relaxed time, nice food with infinite refills on drinks (except my IPA). After dessert I asked about a cabin and got us one with a bathroom. Showers felt so good as usual. We did laundry and just relaxed. That feels really good.

Around 5, after naps, we walked over and had a round of local IPAs and appetizers then ordered dinner with more beer. Our waitress was really a character and it makes me happy to see my non-American friends enjoying American people and things. To top it off I had a nice call with my mom in San Francisco. What a great day!

Platoro to Del Norte over Indiana Pass

Strava: 78.1 km, 1278m, 5:17, 140 shifts, 59.4 kph max on gravel!

We had a luxurious sleep-in until 6:30, in comfortable beds in our cabin. We packed and our host Michael served breakfast at 7:30.

After that we headed up the trail, so much nicer than yesterday. For one thing my legs were much stronger, for another the wind had dropped, and the sky was pure blue. The air above 3000m is just so … Great! Up and up. The road was built in 1878, two years before Platoro. It was steep and sometimes slippery but not bad. There were a few jeeps driving around, very friendly.

We stopped at the first summit, over 3500m, our highest point so far. I shared a package of Trader Joe’s dried passion fruit that Katie gave me for my birthday. The guys were mildly impressed that I had carried it 1200 km!

Then some more down and up but eventually we made it to the summit of Indiana Pass, the highpoint of the whole Great Divide Mountain Bike Route! It’s 3630m / 11909′. We had some more snacks but there’s not even a sign. After that it was about 40 km of descent! Down and down the gravel road, no traffic whatsoever. I didn’t notice at the time but hit nearly 60 kph which feels faster on semi-rough gravel!

We each rode at our own pace, Daniel out in front; he had to get to the hotel for a conference call at 2pm. I was relaxing and very happy when suddenly with maybe 20 km to go, the road became paved! That last section took no effort, downhill with a strong tailwind the whole way. I pulled into town and coasted a few blocks to the hotel. We’re staying in the Windsor Hotel, the oldest hotel in Colorado, from 1874. It’s classic and restored very well. And it’s bike friendly, offering free laundry for bikers (and CDT hikers) and indoor bike parking.

Daniel was deep in his call so the rest of us showered and headed to the brewery leaving him to deal with the laundry. We had some appetizers and I had a giant salad. And of course beer and their homemade root beer. Around 4 Daniel showed up so we ordered more beer and pizza. Make sure you visit Three Barrel Brewing when you come to Del Norte.

We headed back and planned the route to our next big destination, Salida, about 250 km away. We decided on three stages, the first night camping and the second in a cabin or camping. Three of us walked to a great market and bought provisions.

All in all this was a fantastic day riding, 100% better than if we had tried to do it in one stage from Horca yesterday. Gotta stay flexible!

Horca to Platoro

Strava: 38.4 km, 619m, 3:05, 118 shifts, 45 kph max

Last night was our first cold night, not sure how cold, but so cold I had to wear socks. We got up at the normal time of 6 and packed up. It was also the first time that my tent fly wasn’t dry. Breakfast was on the deck of the Red Bear, and we may have turned on one of those propane powered outdoor heaters that I hate, except I sort of loved it this morning. We had breakfast burritos, fried pies and half a giant carrot cake, all purchased the night before.

The sun came up about when we left at 7:30 but I was wearing three shirts and my waterproof thick gloves for the first time. I have now used every clothes item I brought. The dirt road for today started right at the Red Bear and headed gently up. After some time I shed down to normal clothes. My legs were definitely low power.

It was nice scenery as we slowly gained height. We stopped and regrouped, then onward, aiming for lunch in Platoro. The Conejos River valley is just beautiful, green everywhere, the river large and gushing, and snow visible on the high mountains above. The last part to town was almost level but into a very strong headwind. My speed was very low, depressing with 80 km to go.

I was behind Wytze and Daniel and turned off the road and crossed the bridge into town. One café was visible but I didn’t see their bikes. So I cruised around a loop. I stopped at the first place I came to, Gold Pan Outfitters, and the owner waved me over. I asked if he saw two guys and he said no and offered to cook us lunch and provisions if we needed. I went up to the other place and there they were. It looked good, and we had drinks and more fried pies, which are way more delicious than they sound. But somethings rubbed us the wrong way, $15 per person to use the WiFi (WTF??) and some strange comments. We decided against lunch.

But we were all (probably except Wytze) pretty tired and didn’t feel like killing ourselves to make it 80 more km to Del Norte. We could camp a bit higher but that didn’t appeal in the wind. A cabin here with the entire afternoon off, now that is something that sounded good! I suggested we try the Gold Pan place so we rode there. Daniel was sick of burgers and wanted to cook us a pasta dinner. The Gold Pan store had all we would need plus a beautiful cabin with a kitchen. Then it turned out the owner would cook us the pasta and make salad. We haven’t seen salad in a long time. We were sold and moved in.

Hot showers somehow felt even better than yesterday when it had been days. The place is so comfortable. We dried our wet gear, then Wytze bought milk and made us hot chocolate which we had with the other half of the carrot cake. I went straight to bed after that and slept like a log. So nice. It was after 3 when I woke up and powered the second half of my breakfast burrito.

Our host, Michael, cooked us up a great pasta dinner with hearty salad and chicken (extra salad for me). Dessert was ice cream with pecans, chocolate sauce and blueberries. We bought some more supplies and said good night.