Butte to Helena on the 4th of July

Strava: 129.9 km, 2076m, 8:19, 388 shifts, 56 kph max

After a not so good sleep, we were up at 6:30, breakfast at 7 in the hotel. We packed as much as we could from breakfast because we knew it was a big ride today. We rode up to the top of Butte first, not a small climb. It was very quiet but we passed chairs people had put out on the parade route and we also rode through the farmer’s market just setting up.

Out of town the roads wound up and down, very scenic. Finally they turned to dirt and we did a pretty big climb. But the reward was a great descent, down to our friend interstate 15. We took the unpaved frontage road to the town of Basin, and diverted to the saloon/restaurant for lunch. We could still order breakfast so Wytze and I both had stacks of buttermilk pancakes in honor of the 4th. Lots of drinks were had and the owner took our picture for the GDMBR Facebook page. She knew the exact mileage left to Banff 637.3 miles I think).

After lunch we had a series of three climbs. The first was the longest and highest and hit 18%, a record. Lots of concentration required and some sections looked unrideable but were all doable. The descent was pretty crazy but rideable (I think we all had to put a foot down once or twice). Super steep and rocky. I felt sorry for the riders we saw pushing up; it did not look fun.

We regrouped at the start of the second climb. Smaller = easier I thought. But not. Pretty soon, my record of no hike-a-bike on the Great Divide was broken. We all walked and pushed. It was not rideable with loaded bikes, at least by us after 90 km of hard riding. Later I walked a second time but that was probably just mental weakness as Wytze would say.

At least the second descent was smooth and fast unlike the first one. The final climb was surprisingly tame, no problem there. The eight km of climb was really only two km of steep. And the descent to Helena was fast and smooth. We regrouped at the edge of town then rode to the hotel. The streets were oddly deserted, after 6 pm on July 4.

We checked in and the shower was so great. I was caked with salt and dust. We inhaled sodas on checking in, so good. The temperature was over 30°C, quite a change from a few days ago!

At 7:30 we headed out by Uber to a Mediterranean restaurant across town. We went big with Daniel choosing all the appetizers and main dishes. With a liter bottle of fancy French white wine… So good! We shared everything and then shared four desserts. The upshot was that they measured up to the typical desserts in Italy.

We ubered back seeing a few fireworks but no one was in a mood to try and see more. It was after 10 and time for bed. Big day, big fun!

Wise River to Butte

Strava: 82.1 km, 977m, 4:19, 258 shifts, 56 kph max

There were eight cyclists in the Community Center but I didn’t even need ear plugs. I was out like a light. Everyone seemed to get up a little after 6. My breakfast was a couple of bean & cheese burritos plus a muffin. I made lunch to carry, English Muffin with pepper jack cheese.

We packed up and were first to leave, with Neill, but he inexplicably dropped behind and didn’t ride with us. We powered down the valley, skipping the turn onto the trail to the infamous Fleecer Ridge. We had decided to do the “Divide Alternative” instead, and rode 20 km to the tiny town of Divide.

What we missed could arguably be called a highlight of the GDMBR, but then again maybe not. It is a long, very rocky 30%[!] grade that is so steep that many people can’t push their loaded bikes up, and no one can ride up it. People take their bags up first, then return for their bikes. Descending it (for SOBO riders) is super dangerous and most people walk. Anyway, like many others we took the alternative.

From Divide we took highway 91, a frontage road to Interstate 15. It was pretty with no traffic and you could rarely even see the interstate. But it wasn’t too long before we met our track again and headed off on dirt, under the interstate then up a five km 440m climb. The bottom part maxed out at 16% and the top at 17%, wow! I was sweating a lot but cranked it out in one push. We had second breakfast or first lunch on top, gorgeous with flowers everywhere and nice views.

There was another 300m to climb but it was in short sections and not super steep. It was really pleasant riding eventually coming out on a paved road. We saw more and more houses and ranches, then surprisingly headed back onto dirt. Then onto an excellent singletrack section! It turned out we rode through a mountain bike park, 3500 acres with over 40 km of trails. It was wonderful swooping up and down, over rocks, generally downhill so very easy. Some sections were technical and required care and balance. We saw a few unburdened riders plus a number of SOBO riders bound for Antelope Wells.

We left the park via a fast, paved descent, then the route headed into the big city of Butte, population almost 35,000, our biggest city on the tour so far. We cruised to the hotel and arrived at 1:30. The rooms weren’t ready yet so we had drinks next door at a coffee shop. Wytze went off to the bike shop where he found Neill with a broken back wheel. The rest of us checked in and enjoyed what I think was the best shower yet on the trip.

Andrew and I worked on flights in the afternoon and booked our return flight from Calgary. After Wytze got back from the bike shop, we ubered downtown to an Italian restaurant Daniel picked out. Unfortunately when we got there it was closed for the 4th of July. We walked a couple of blocks and found the most amazing place called Shawn O’Donnell’s American Grill and Irish Pub. It was about 20 minutes wait but then the most amazing dinner. They had a printer that prints cool images like the Statue of Liberty on the foam of your Guinness! We had many drinks, delicious food and shared bread pudding for dessert.

We ubered home after checking out a little more of downtown Butte. We committed to riding to Helena tomorrow by booking a couple of nights there. I hope we haven’t bitten off more than we can chew. It’s a big ride!

35: Lima to Bannack

Strava: 79.2 km, 294m, 3:22, 91 shifts, 56.4 kph max

36: Bannack to Wise River

Strava: 89.5 km, 910m, 4:07, 194 shifts, 66.6 kph max

With better, warmer weather, packing up to leave at 6:30 seemed great. We had breakfast from Janzz Java then headed north on an alternate route we cooked up. Near the interstate there is the old highway we took. It was such a contrast from our previous two rainy cold stages, it was hard to believe. Gentle tailwind, in the sun, no traffic, perfect!

We stopped before 15 km at Dell, population 35. The store there has lots of good stuff and we made the owner happy. We had second breakfast outside then continued north.

Soon we were on gravel again, then met up with the route again. As we rejoined, we met Luke again, and he rode with us a ways. We turned on the dirt road to Bannack and Luke left us behind as we stopped at an irresistible lawn with shade trees. We had first lunch there, then all fell asleep. We were officially waiting for a big dark storm to pass ahead of us but actually just lazy.

We finally got up and going again, with only 17 km to go, when we noticed a second even worse looking storm coming. It was dumping rain just south and west of us. It got darker but the wind was from behind. Every time the big drops started falling, I cranked harder to get ahead. The whole section must’ve been slightly downhill too because I cruised the whole thing at 40-55 kph. It started hailing slightly, just as Daniel, Wytze and I ducked under the deck of a house at the corner. We high-fived and immediately the noise was deafening! The hail blasted down so hard. Andrew was caught in it but he’s tough so no worries (easy for me to say…)

We all waited it out for 20 minutes then headed up to the campground. We staked out a nice site right next to the river and set up tents. It was early so we spent a couple of hours checking out the ghost town in Bannack State Park, an easy walk from the campground.

We walked back and cooked dinner. It was our tried and true recipe: 16 servings of instant mashed potatoes with a lot of tuna. It started raining a little while we ate so we went to bed pretty early. With no internet I read a little then fell asleep listening to the gurgling river and the pattering rain. I’m reading George Orwell’s Burmese Days.

It rained in the night and it may have been our wettest packing up in the morning. We had oatmeal and English Muffins with cheese for breakfast and got rolling at 8 am. We rode down to the road we came in on beating the hailstorm yesterday but turned right, onto the paved section. It was cool and pleasant riding, with a stop for second breakfast around 30 km, just at the start of a large climb.

We headed off route after a few km to explore Elkhorn Hot Springs. That turned out to be a great stop. They have two pools, both very large and warm. I even got a hazy IPA on draft then we borrowed swim trunks and towels. It was really relaxing and fun. We chatted with quite a few SOBO riders, one said he felt like turning around and going back to Banff – because he loved it so much and thought that it couldn’t be as awesome if he continued south. We liked that!

After a couple of hours we headed on, taking a shortcut up a very steep dirt road climbing a couple hundred meters which eventually joined the paved road just past the big climb. From the summit we had a mostly downhill cruise, about 45 km, to Wise River.

Wytze and I pulled in straight to the “World Famous Wise River Club”, a saloon and hotel. The service was slow but we had a few rounds of drinks and some food. We were joined by Neill, Daniel and Andrew and left after 3. We all rode to the Mercantile where they explained how the Community Center across the street works. $20 donation, nice setup, reminiscent of our first night in Hachita. We were first so got our choices of cots and pads.

No shower but we were clean from the hot springs. We bought breakfast foods from the Mercantile and relaxed as more and more cyclists showed up. They say 2500 cyclists stay here per year. The town population is under 50.

Around 7 we walked over to the Wise River Club for dinner with Neill and a SOBO Swiss guy, Chris. Had a nice, relaxed dinner, arriving back at “home” after 9 pm. Just another great day on the Great Divide!

June 30, 2026 was our fourth rest day.

After ten days riding in a row from Rawlins, and with the weather still cold and rain in the forecast, it was a no-brainer to stop for a rest day in Lima. It’s a tiny town but the Beaverhead Inn is a great place to rest and recharge.

We’ve now ridden 3000 km / 1864 miles and climbed 36,400m / 119,500′. We worked out how to get to the big city of Butte in a few days. From Lima, we’ll be taking an alternate route to avoid mud. We’re averaging 88 km per riding day, 79 km per day. Right on target!

We had drinks and muffins from the coffee shop which is tiny, and like last night’s food truck, is in the Beaverhead Inn parking lot. We sat outside but it was really too cold to enjoy.

We worked on bike stuff, and I talked to Neill who we rode with yesterday. We found that we had raced together in his home town back in 2004 in the Red Bull Mountain Mayhem 24 hour mountain bike (unicycle) race at Eastnor Castle in Malvern Hills, England. Small world.

There was a short period midday when the weather warmed up and we sat outside having pie and drinks. There was also some awesomely powerful thunder but little actual rain.

I think some naps occurred after that, then we shopped for beer and snacks for our afternoon movie, Bank of Dave 2, not as good as the original. I wanted to try the third little shop in the parking lot, a fancy ice cream vendor, but never made it happen.

After a nice video chat with Katie, we had about the same parking lot food truck dinner as last night, again with some extra snacks and drinks from the gas station store. Tonight’s movie was a wild one, Dogville. It’s long and as they say, “controversial and experimental.”

Red Hawk Lodge to Lima

Strava: 67.2 km, 415m, 3:53, 141 shifts, 37.3 kph max, all in rain

The somewhat unseasonably cold weather continues. Montana is giving us a “tough love” welcome. We had a relaxing big breakfast at the Red Hawk Lodge, eggs and unlimited pancakes. It was raining so no one was in a hurry but somehow by 10 am we were packed and heading out.

The wind was from the side and as soon as we hit the main road, the light rain increased to more serious. The road seemed just as muddy and crappy as yesterday. The first 28 km was pretty constant, a little up or down, some parts very muddy, a few parts relatively less so. We passed the guy who didn’t make it to the lodge the night before, he had camped and was pretending to be cheerful.

At the junction we easily chose the “shortcut route”, after hearing from multiple riders the main route had a long section of unrideable peanut butter mud. We had 17 more km of mud to the highway and passed a cyclist who confirmed this was the way and riding the Interstate is basically required. Now after more than two hours of rain, cold water was seeping through my shoes, down my legs, etc. We had a climb, then coasted down to the Interstate 15 on-ramp.

We headed onto the highway and traffic was generally polite. A guy I talked to later who drove past us said we looked great, all in a group with high-viz colors. He said he knew that desperate times called for desperate measures. We were joined by a Brit, Neill, for the 24 km on the highway to Lima (LeyeMuh, not like the Peruvian city). No close calls, just mentally challenging I would say. And wet and cold. Andrew said today was the worst conditions he’s ever ridden in, and that’s saying a lot.

I was very very happy when the Lima exit finally appeared. We stopped at the gas station and wandered around in the store but didn’t buy anything. I got my phone dried and working and found the Beaverhead Inn I had booked two nights in was right across the street. I guess that’s not surprising since Lima is very small (population 212).

We checked in and our host made us coffee and chocolate and we ate a couple of apple pies. We washed our bikes and bags off with the hose, then worked on our clothes. They have laundry service here but we had to first scrape off as much mud as possible then wash the outer clothes in the shower. The hot shower felt amazing. My legs were so pink. All day it was 2-4°C.

When I went to Wytze and Daniel’s room to collect their laundry, they were already in bed. What a day! I’m so glad to be not riding tomorrow since the forecast is for more rain, although a little warmer. I cranked the heater in our room and sprayed the mud off my shoes with the hose. Chores are done ✅

Naps were definitely taken then it was time for dinner. Unfortunately in the beginning of the week there is only one option in town. But luckily it’s a very nice lady with her food truck in the Beaverhead Inn parking lot! We picked up dinner there while Daniel and Wytze bought drinks and snacks and dessert at the gas station store.

We retired to their suite and ate while watching an inspiring movie based on a true story, The Bank of Dave.

Another milestone today: we have ridden 3000.06 km in our 34 stages since Antelope Wells! Approx 1400 km remain to Banff.

Island Park, Idaho to Montana

Strava: 55.7 km, 523m, 3:34, 124 shifts, 44.1 kph max, all in rain

It was very nice sleeping in again. We got up around 8:30 and had the hotel breakfast, packed up, then procrastinated until 10:30 when the rain was supposed to be lighter. Daniel bought plastic wrap and he and Andrew used it experimentally on their shoes. I tried a plastic bag inside each sock.

Finally we couldn’t put it off any longer and set out in light rain, temperature 3°C. We had a little pavement then turned off on a rough 4wd track with gigantic puddles. Going around the first puddle I found it so deep that one foot went all the way underwater so the plastic bag experiment was off on that foot. Soon we went through a gate that said ‘Road Closed’ and the trial became rougher. But we had seen two riders coming the opposite way and there were only two tracks visible so it appeared they had made it through. When the puddles covered 100% of the width and you had to ride through it was exciting because it might be shallow or very deep.

After a while there was another short paved section but it ended and we were back on gravel. The climb to Red Rock Pass wasn’t too bad but just then it was quite rainy and cold. At the top we crossed the Continental Divide yet again and entered our last state, Montana. Welcome to Montana, there’s a winter weather warning in late June and it’s snowing just a tiny bit above the pass where it’s 2°!

Just down a little we met some riders who were coming from the Red Hawk Lodge where I had booked us a room. They confirmed the distance and that it was good.

The last 28 km from the pass was pretty trying, between the rain, cold temps and the strong headwind. I was thinking how amazingly much the road to Banff varies from Antelope Wells to Montana. “Hey Andrew, remember how hot it was at the end of the first day? Not like that here, eh?” The km counter did its thing and eventually we rode up the lodge road. I learned a new advantage of electronic shifting: when your hands are numb it’s still relatively easy to shift!

The owner had warned us that they’d probably still be in town when we arrived but said to go on in and described how to find our room upstairs. First we found a hose and washed off the bikes and bags. So muddy. My foot that didn’t get submerged was surprisingly dry. Then we relaxed inside in the warm with our outer clothes drying on a rack. The owners arrived after a couple of hours and are really nice people.

After naps and more conversation it was dinner time. We ate Taco Salad with Mel and Jeanette, the owners. After we finished a pair of SOBO riders appeared and had dinner too. Mel has lived here many decades and told us lots of stories and interesting info about the local grizzlies, moose, wolves etc. There’s been a wildlife refuge here since 1935.

We did some planning and I booked us two nights in Lima. Rest day here we come. From the weather forecast, tomorrow looks like another day where we should not leave early. So we stayed up past 9:30 pm and can sleep in!

Squirrel Creek Elk Ranch to Island Park

Strava: 71.6 km, 656m, 4:17, 160 shifts, 56.3 kph max

I had my ear plugs in all night so as not to hear the rain or Andrew snoring. I didn’t wake up until 7:30! Over 10 hours of sleep! Soon after I woke up there was a brief but strong thunderstorm. We went to breakfast at 8:30 and finally left, in full rain gear, at 9:45.

It only rained a little as we cruised the paved road, then turned onto dirt after seven km. After a climb we descended to Warm River Campground, then headed up the rail trail in rain. At the start we saw a very fresh bear claw print so I enabled my bell.

The rain mostly stopped as we climbed the consistent grade. It was a very narrow double track, pretty and fun for a change. After 20 km of the rail trail we stopped to take off jackets and talk to a somewhat overwhelmed Tour Divide racer. He had even had a day of negative progress due to an extreme navigation error. He will not make it in a month, that’s for sure.

We had another 15 km of dirt roads, off and on rain, and a little hail. We came out on a highway, US 20, which we took to a gas station/restaurant. We went in for lunch but only had drinks, deciding to eat at the next restaurant, the last on our route. We were planning on staying at a campground around 90 km. We headed north to the next restaurant, staying on the highway to save about 10 km. The shoulder was narrow but the cars and trucks were kind. As we pulled into the restaurant, that second a deluge started. Incredibly good timing. The shortcut was so worth it.

We had a delicious lunch and I found a lodge we had missed on the map previously. I called and made a reservation for tomorrow after Wytze rented us a room at the Sawtelle Mountain Resort across the street. Who says we have to camp in the rain? It’s good to be flexible.

We checked in and got clean. Wytze bought us wine, cheese, chips, salsa, grapes, crackers and hummus. The room is spacious and nice and I guess we’re getting used to sharing queen sized beds now. Our dinner party ended before 7, lightweights.

The weather forecast is bad for tomorrow but we’ll survive I’m sure.

Colter Bay Village to Squirrel Creek Elk Ranch, Idaho

Strava: 86 km, 814m, 4:42, 296 shifts, 79.3 kph max

The weather started out perfect. We got up late and rode over to the grocery store to buy breakfast and lunch. We ate by the lake, a super scenic spot.

Then we headed north on the highway. Our turnoff was at Flagg Ranch after 25 km or so. We had some drinks in their restaurant but I wouldn’t go back. The dirt road was a little rough but nice. A little climbing first but mostly downhill later.

We had some lunch on Grassy Lake Dam and it was funny to have fast WiFi Internet there thanks to a van with Starlink parked a ways away.

There were a couple more small climbs which we did listening to loud thunder. Soon there was a brief hailstorm and some rain, but it was over quickly. We paused under a tree and practically didn’t get wet.

As we continued, suddenly it started up again. It was the strongest, most painful hail I’ve ever experienced! My jacket mostly protected me but when a hailstone hit my gloved hand or my bare leg, ouch! It was so powerful! Of course we just kept going and within a “few” minutes the worst was over. We were left riding in plain rain. After a while even that stopped. By the time we hit the end of the dirt road it was drying out. Then the headwind hit just as Wytze got inspired to blast the last few km at warp speed.

We pulled in to the Squirrel Creek Elk Ranch and immediately had lemonade, then they showed us our cabin. Unfortunately it only has three beds, so this time Daniel has the couch or floor and gets a Bed Upgrade Credit. Andrew cashed his in for the big queen size bed. Wytze and I took upstairs. We all had showers and did laundry.

I chatted with Chaice and the owners for a while then it was time for dinner. We ate mightily then dessert wasn’t ready so we had an hour to relax before fresh apple pie with ice cream was ready.

Dessert was great, but we were all tired. It’s 8 pm and time for sleep 💤

Lava Mountain Lodge to Colter Village, Grand Teton National Park

Strava: 87.6 km, 910m, 4:58, 212 shifts, 47.5 kph max

Sharing beds on this trip is not the recipe for perfect sleep but it worked pretty well for me this time. We got up at 6 and packed. Daniel had sweet talked the staff into opening the kitchen at 7 for breakfast. So we had eggs and potatoes and toast with bacon.

We headed out and the long climb we did a little of yesterday continued. We turned off on a gravel road and climbed for a long time. Then it turned into a 4wd road that is not open yet and is not recommended when there’s any rain. We soon found out why.

Andrew’s brake was dragging so he got to the summit some time after us. The rain was just starting as we worked on his bike. We sort of got it working and started down. The rain was coming down and it was shocking how little it took to turn the nice dirt into the most sticky crappy mud ever. We were riding with Chaice, a young Australian, but he had to push. For Daniel it was even worse. He physically couldn’t go. Wheels jammed, pushing the bike just jammed his shoes. Andrew stayed with him. Wytze and I both wrestled with our chains coming off, but when I finally got mine on, I was able to ride. We rode the three km down to the main road and waited an hour at a lake. It was chilly but the rain had stopped. Finally Daniel and Andrew arrived and Daniel rode straight into the lake to clean his bike and shoes. I spent quite a while cleaning my bike with a stick.

Finally we were off and regrouped at a gas station/store 10 km down the highway. We bought lots of snacks and used their hose to clean our bikes. There were many other cyclists doing the same.

The sun came out and we decided to risk the next off-road section instead of bailing to the highway. I am so glad we did. We rode with Chaice down a gorgeous descent, not really muddy at all. It was great. After that it was another 15 km of paved back road until we regained the highway.

The views of the Tetons were stunning in this section, continually getting better. After a long way we got to the Grand Teton National Park entrance station and I was (again) embarrassed for my country. Starting this year there is an extra $100 per person surcharge for non-US residents entering a National Park. “America First” what a load of crap! Luckily I could buy a one year pass for $20 and that gave me and up to three more people, any people, entry. So for us it was ok, but several others I talked to had to pay the surcharge.

We rode to the Colter Village convenience store for ice cream and drinks then to the campground. The cabins were full but there is a special section of the campground for bikers and hikers and we got a couple of sites there. It’s well organized and we soon had our tents up. Everything that remotely has a scent goes in the bear box. The host said grizzlies are in the campground nightly. We rode to the showers and got cleaned up, left the clothes in a washer and had dinner at the restaurant. Tasty hazy IPA, large salads, appetizers and most of us had pasta.

I booked us a cabin in Idaho (!) for tomorrow night, then we picked up the laundry, I wrote this and will ride back to camp, no wifi or reception at the camp. Great day!

Kendall Valley Lodge to Lava Mountain Lodge

Strava: 101 km, 1602m, 7:15, 323 shifts, 46.8 kph max

Today seemed hard but it’s probably mostly to do with getting a late start. We packed up and hung out until 8, when breakfast opened. I had the best omelet of the trip, then they made us lunch sandwiches to go. All that took time and we didn’t start until 9:15, unheard of for us.

The rough dirt started right away, with a 10 km gentle uphill warmup, then a more serious climb.  Then we just continued up and down, pretty much all day. The big excitement was Wytze seeing a bear, so after that, whenever I was riding alone through trees, I had my Swiss bell from Daniel engaged and ringing.

We cruised on and on, past a forest fire that turned the sky a little dark and made the air smell for a while. We stopped around halfway for our lunch sandwiches. For the first time there were quite a few mosquitoes around, but we sat on granite rocks in the wind which worked for a while. When the wind dropped we carried on riding.

There were lots more climbs and we talked to a number of cyclists. It seemed like most were no longer Tour Divide racers, but just people riding the Great Divide like us, mostly SOBO. We rode past some snow over 2900m but very little.

Eventually we had one final large descent and hit a paved highway. It was getting near 6 pm but we only had a couple of km to the Lava Mountain Lodge I had booked a couple of days ago. We pulled in and immediately had a round of Voodoo Ranger IPA. Then to our room for showers and laundry. Dinner after that, very fancy and slow but worth the wait. The salad greens were grown in their hydroponic garden; the trout was absolutely boneless and delicious. We shared a bottle of Chardonnay and drank lots of water and lemonade. I retired early to write this but it was already 9 pm. Luckily we think we have a slightly easier day tomorrow.