Paris Dakar Stage 27 to Fez

Stage 27 of 60, day 32 of 71: 156.5 km, 2420m, 7:31, 553 shifts, ave speed 20.8, max speed 60.0

We got up normally for 7am breakfast, but I know the day’s long stage was on everyone’s mind. It was the longest stage yet and had the most climbing of any so far too. Quite a few people made arrangements to ride some or all of the stage in the van or one of the trucks. Not everyone is fully healthy either. We left the campground at 8:12 in nice cool air. That lasted 17 km and then it was suddenly hot. Not a blast furnace yet, but that would come. We rode in a group, then at 30 km most people stopped for drinks but Kris and I decided to continue. We cruised along, chatting, and time passed easily. Well, there were a few exceptions. One was dogs. It was nothing like South America but at one point two were coming after Kris, one from each side, scary. But I don’t think anyone got bit today and most dogs didn’t attack. Also we had lots of encounters with people along the road. The kids were mostly smiling and asking our names and saying “How are you?” etc. We always wave and smile and try to answer. But a couple of times they also threw rocks at us. I got hit in the leg once, a first for me. Not cool. Two woman riders told me later they were slapped on the behind while riding. Also not cool. We must look like we’re from outer space to most of the locals though.

At 60 km we stopped at a little bar in a small town and each pounded a couple of soft drinks and drank some water. We both decided to train our stomachs as recommended by the staff: the locals drink the tap water and it is generally thought to be “ok”. So we did and will see how we fare tomorrow.

We continued on to a pretty normal lunch stop at 90 km, with everyone seeking shade and drinking lots. We went on and failed to stop at the next town, probably a mistake. Then one of the big climbs started. I got ahead and spied a little house after climbing for 10 km that had a bike in front. Richard told me the water is cold and they have sodas. So I bought four (mint flavored Sprite) and then Kris arrived and boy was she psyched. We drank those then the guys brought us water. We each drank a glass and thought we were doing a good job mixing safe drinks with potentially unsafe water. We just decided not to worry though. Even in supposedly “insulated” bottles, our water heats up to a temperature uncomfortable to drink after riding maybe 20 km, so stopping like this seems pretty vital.

From there the climb continued a long time and for a few minutes I was reduced to climbing in 38×52, my lowest gear, pretty much unused until now. Ype passed me just as I was topping out and waited on the pass. He gave me cool fresh water and dumped a bunch over me too. Down the other side I came upon Jan working on a flat with Dennis and Louis. I offered my pump and once they found a tube without holes, pumped up his tire. They passed me near the top of the next hill but good deeds are rewarded: soon after there was another bar and they bought me several drinks and Louis poured water all over me. Thank you guys!

We rode down to the outskirts of Fez together, then the last 6 km through town, on big wide streets with lots of traffic. There were many roundabouts with traffic lights. That seems to defeat the purpose, but I guess it works. Soon we pulled into the hotel and that was an awesome moment. There were bikes out front – no locks required as they are guarded 24×7. I didn’t check in, just went straight to the snack room for sandwiches, coke and many other snacks. I got my room, lonely without Andrew. After a shower I went to the bar with Dennis and bought beers! Yes you read that right, beers!

Later, Kris, Joan and Daniel joined and more beers were had. Such luxury. They are expensive here and not particularly special, other than being from a country where alcohol is basically banned, but they were very welcome. Then we went out to dinner nearby and had a nice simple meal.

I guess that’s the hardest stage we’ve done so far, although it might’ve been slightly hotter the day before. I’m now thinking we have some really hard times ahead as there are several stages at 170 km and more. And once we get to Western Sahara and Mauritania, it seems likely that friendly locals with drinks and plenty of cool water are much less common. I am SO glad tomorrow is a rest day!