Stage 46 of 60, day 54 of 71: 155 km, 258m, 4:42, 46 shifts, ave speed 32.9, max speed 48.8
The secret to these desert camps is to get up a little early, 7 to 7:10, while it’s still dark, and wander into a field to do your morning business. Then you can pack up leisurely and make it to breakfast at 8 easily.
I didn’t sleep well due to our campsite being right by a police checkpoint on the main road that had lots of activity all night long. From midnight to 2am I was awake wondering what it would be like to be sleeping at home in blissful quiet and dark. With any luck I’ll find out in less than three weeks!
After breakfast we left in a group and rode 40 km to the largest city in Western Sahara, Laâyoune. The usual suspects turned off to explore the city while most of the others continued. The city was pretty amazing, with more Moroccan flags than you could believe. There were military guys everywhere. There were big public parks and squares and major signs of development, yet it was also dirty and dusty. But the people looked relatively prosperous and happy.

We found a café with the inevitable bakery across the street. Drinks and many pastries were had, then Daniel’s special treat: fresh squeezed orange juice for all four of us.



Then we got back to the main road and continued south. We had a minor excitement of getting stopped at a police checkpoint. After being waved through so many, it was a surprise. But in the end the guy was friendly and since we had no papers not much really happened. He asked if we had motors (maybe he noticed how fast we came in?), and the others said no, but I said yes and showed him my left motor and my right motor (legs) – he laughed.

After a while we got to lunch at 85 km and ate a small amount. We were almost last but didn’t want to rush. We headed off and soon the angle changed so that it was a really perfect tailwind and it had gotten quite strong too. So we lightly pedalled at 45+, so fun. Bart was way ahead and then Wytze went, but there was no benefit to drafting so we all went our own speeds. Soon the angle got worse and I was down to 30. I stopped for a camel selfie.


I just kept at it and sure enough, soon the Garmin read 150 km done and I was almost to town. Lamsiid is tiny, with a gas station/restaurant. I stopped there and had alcohol free mojitos with Daniel. Then to camp. We were behind the gas station, in a big barren field. I joined most of the people camping on a sidewalk by a wall that broke the wind.

It was shower time but of course there’s no shower. So I used both bidons from my bike which had heated up nicely. I carefully had refilled them at lunch for just this reason. I stripped naked by my tent, not far from the main road and peacefully “showered”. Michael had a whole comical commentary about me waving my very white but good looking butt around in the open air. Other parts were included too. You probably had to be there.
Then it was soup, snacks and writing in the shade. Others tried going the 1.5 km to the ocean to swim but we’re stymied by cliffs and very rough water.
Dinner was falafel with other stuff, and crepes for dessert. Delicious!

And today we have another Rider Profile. Today’s rider is Richard Friedman.

How old are you Richard?
61, although with respect to maturity, 14 or possibly less.
Where are you from?
Tucson, Arizona
How much of this crazy adventure are you doing?
Planning to do the whole thing
Tell us about your bike…
It’s a Seven Axiom, with 34 -50, back 13-34. Tire size 700×28
What attracted you to sign up for Paris Dakar?
Adventure, history of Paris Dakar rallies, always up for a challenge!!
Do your friends think you’re crazy?
Verging on crazy, but appreciate the chance to do something like this and live in the moment, and also hope for my sake that Chinese Food and Starbucks are to be found in the Western Sahara and Mauritania.
What else would you like people to know about you?
I’m also into backpacking, astronomy, ants, bulldogs and freshwater planted aquaria.
Thanks Richard!
Boy will you appreciate your own bed when you are back to it! Are the camels just out there wild or do they all belong to someone? Maybe hard to tell…
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They look wild but close up I saw ear tags on all of them so definitely domesticated and owned.
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Thanks for looking carefully. I wonder how they find their camels when they want them for something! The grazing does not look very rewarding there!
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