Paris Dakar Stage 48 to a Beautiful Desert Camp

Stage 48 of 60, day 56 of 71: 174.4 km, 433m, 4:56, 73 shifts, ave speed 35.2, max speed 55.3

For once I actually woke up from a deep sleep via the alarm. It was quiet enough at night to sleep well finally. The wind was gentle at breakfast, and we headed off around 9 to tackle the longest stage of the tour. Completing this stage means we are 80% done with the tour!

I started the day leading the pack with Kris for 20 km, gently ramping the pace from the low to the high 30s kph. The wind was nice to us and our section went easily. Later, we briefly rode with a Brit and his Moroccan friend but they were fully loaded and could not hang. The pack continued, on and on, with generally worse winds, sometimes feeling like a headwind, but also with a little climbing so we were down to the low 20s, then after an angle change, back in the low 40s.

We pulled in at the first gas station at 82 km but they didn’t have any sodas so we had lunch across the road where Ype and Rigo were set up. Daniel did find drinks at another place and brought me a great gift: 500ml of Schweppes Citron, generally thought of as the best soda here, certainly by me.

Then it was time to go again, this time a short way to a gas station at 111 km. We had a diagonal pace line: Wytze, me, Daniel, Jonny, and Kris in the sweetest inside position. Lots of drinks were consumed, then back at it for the final 63 km. We started with the same group but Jonny and Kris defected on a climb. So the three of us cruised to camp, arriving early, in under 5 hours riding time which I’m pretty sure is my fastest century (100 mile ride) ever. It was awesome to arrive feeling fine, plenty left in the tank. Or I guess nowadays I should say SOC (State of Charge) nowhere near zero.

We had snacks and soup and Daniel even found another 500ml Schweppes Citron! This campsite appears to be the best bush/desert camp yet. We’re right by the cliff, the edge of Africa. The Atlantic is making beautiful music about 50m below. Yes it’s a flat desert but it’s not bad. I set up my tent in a scenic spot; all spots are scenic.

Just 100m from camp there’s a shower of sorts. The attendant enthusiastically ushered me in. His compatriot was heating the shower water in big pots on fires. He gave me maybe 20 liters and a small bucket to dip and pointed to a stall. I gave him 10 dirhams (just under $1) and he was very happy. In the stall is a toilet, the hole in the ground type. And nothing else. I put my clothes on the top of the wall and tried the water. On the plus side the temperature was perfect, almost hot. On the minus side it was very sulphury, and not remotely clear. But it’s one of the better 3rd world showers I’ve had. Just keep your mouth closed! I washed my hair twice, such luxury.

I wrote then fell asleep in my tent. Dinner was great with a super view and sunset and full moon rise. Dessert was Emily’s homemade fudge with oranges.

Back in my tent I had a long and wonderful talk with Katie and finished up the blog. Today was the best day of this block for me, because the campsite is so nice and the riding so easy. Rob gave a strange talk at dinner about how easy we’ve had it and how we should slow down and enjoy more. I say celebrate the win on the easy wind conditions and I think we’re doing quite well on enjoyment! Chill, Rob.

Ok now today’s Rider Profile: our rider is Bart Akkersdijk. Bart rode the Balkan Boulevard with me in 2022 but he also rode the whole 4 1/2 months Andes Trail in 2016, the time before I rode it. He’s very strong and fun to hang out with.

Bart, where are you from and how old are you?

I come from the south east of the Netherlands. 63 years young 😊

How much of this crazy adventure are you riding?

I am riding Paris Dakar totally.

Tell us about your bike…

I am riding on a Trek Continental Grand Prix 5000……on 28 mm tires. My gears 2 x 11, front 50-34. Back 11-34 and now 11-30.

What motivated you to sign up for Paris Dakar?

I really like the Paris Dakar for the route. That means for me crossing France and Spain by bike. And riding in Africa, the first time in Maroc for me. And then there is the epic story of doing Paris Dakar. Not by car….no just with a bicycle!

Do your friends think you’re crazy?

I think that the most of my friends like what I do but/and they think that you have to be crazy also 🫣😃

What else do you want people to know about you?

I like riding the tours with Bike Dreams because of the adventure but also riding  together with a group. And especially a group with the same passion.

Thanks Bart. It’s been awesome riding with you and I’m looking forward to all the remaining stages together.