Paris Dakar Stage 58 to Senegal

Stage 58 of 60, day 68 of 71: 65.7 km, 57m, 2:23, ~50 shifts, ave speed 27.4, max speed 53.3

After breakfast we had a mellow 8 km ride on the rough dirt road to the border. The crossing was a boring two hour wait to get out of Mauritania, then a short ride through No Man’s Land (a bridge over the Senegal River), then another boring two hour wait to get into Senegal. The vendors were annoying although they sold many of us SIM cards and I and many others traded in all our Mauritanian Ougiyas for CFA (Central African Francs which are used in Senegal).

Finally we and our four trucks could roll down the smooth asphalt. Lunch was 10 km along the road to St. Louis but Wytze, Daniel and I pulled another rogue move and just waved as we headed into town at 40 kph. It didn’t take long and riding in a new country was great. Senegal seems more prosperous than Mauritania. We followed the Bike Dreams route even when it went on a silly dirt road around the edge of town. Soon we were at the famous bridge to the old town and rode across.

We had already picked out a restaurant. It was somehow a huge relief to sit down and relax after the border experience. The place was called Chez Dasso and advertised Slow Food and Organic. We eventually ordered then asked if they had beer since it wasn’t on the menu. Of course! So we had our first strictly legal beer in almost six weeks. While waiting I had a video call with Katie outside. Lunch came, two different seafood dishes and one chicken. It was really enjoyable, then we headed over to a patisserie for dessert, very tasty.

We also needed more francs and the banks seemed to all be closing. We noticed a dingy store that also advertised money exchange and tried it. Best money changing ever! The rate was the real one, not seen at the border, 1 € = 650 CAF. No paperwork, no questions, just type on the calculator and count out the bills. Nice.

Then we rode back over the bridge and did the last 23 km to the Zebrabar campsite. It’s made by a Swiss guy, 27 years ago and is pretty nice. Daniel asked if I wanted to share a bungalow so we got a beautiful little house, right on the beach. Before anything I had to have a beer with Jan and it was so nice reminiscing about the Andes Trail and this trip.

Next up was a swim in what sort of counts as the river but is more of a lagoon. Salt water, perfect temp, small waves. It’s more humid here so this really felt great 👍 Then showers and a little laundry.

We talked to our neighbors, one German guy had spent 8 days driving here, was staying two nights, then is going to drive back! I said, “You’re crazy!” He agreed then heard how we got here and said “But you’re really crazy!” Eventually we heard the fire truck horn meaning dinner was served so we walked over and ate burritos and potatoes and salad. I got us each another beer too. After dinner we hung out at the bar which is self-service in the evening.

Daniel and I retired to our house, for me to write this. We’re so far from cell towers that my phone barely works here, but Daniel’s is slightly better so once again this post is courtesy of his hotspot.

Tomorrow is another rest day, then just two more riding days to Dakar!!!