Bella Italia Stage 17

Sant’Eufemia di Maiella to Civitella Alfedena

Strava: 86.9 km, 1,922m, 5:39, 288 shifts

Today we had a slightly longer stage and the weather was forecast to crap out at 2 pm. So we got up and ate as many packages of pastries (that’s the second B in B&B here) as we could and left just after 8. It was pretty clear and we finally could see the gorgeous scenery that was hidden yesterday. It was the first actually cool air start so far.

Just out of town our first climb started, 450m up to San Leonardo Pass. The climb was paved and mellow with the view getting better by the turn. Down the other side, another climb, some pretty rolling countryside, then a third climb. Before we knew it we were in Rivisondoli having climbed 1,000m and it was 10:30, time for more food. It’s a ski resort town and we found a comfortable café. We had pastries and hot chocolate, out in the sun. We ate as much as possible, knowing the area ahead has no towns.

We headed out, on gravel for the first time today. Over a little hill, that was the warmup. Then it started for real. The first climb took us up to 1,700m, some of it very steep. I walked a tiny bit but not Wytze. The descent was what Bike Dreams people had warned us they pushed up for four km: steep and rocky and slippery because it was wet. We managed the first half slowly but ok, then it got even crazier and we walked for safety. Well, Daniel just rode it somehow but it didn’t seem worth it to me.

There were a couple more climbs after that, and the predicted rain started a bit early, as we started up the first one. Daniel was ahead and saw a wild boar. Soon it was really raining in a disheartening way – it was cold too. But you just keep going, the intensity dropped a little, and we slowly made it up to the top. We hit a paved road for the last three km of climbing which helped. A ways down we came across a wonderful Refugio restaurant that was open and had a wood fire cranking. We settled in to refuel and warm up.

Not only did it work, but by the time we were ready to roll, the sun was coming out! What a surprise. The descent was cold at first but once we got down to 1,200m it warmed up and was fun. We regrouped at the bottom then had a short climb to our destination town where we found the apartment. After showers it wasn’t long before all four of us were fast asleep. Afternoon naps are so good!

About 7, we headed out for some breakfast shopping, then to a local restaurant. It was warm and cozy in the cave-like dining room. We were a little restrained, only one bottle of wine and only Andrew had dessert. It was very pleasant walking back under a beautiful moon.