Stage 19 of 60, day 23 of 71: 140 km, 1529m, 5:36, 334 shifts, ave speed 24.9, max speed 58.2

After a big day riding and a huge dinner I fell asleep so quickly and deeply. It was weird in the morning waking up in a bed – I was momentarily unsure where I was! Andrew and I went down for breakfast at 7:30 and it was a bit sad compared to the normal Bike Dreams fare. Just some toast with olive oil and tomato sauce or jam. And some weak pastries, plus orange juice. I ate as much as possible then packed up and brought my bag across the square to the truck and got my bike ready. We had a surprise announcement that our cook’s assistant, Frank, had had enough and was not continuing. He was scheduled to work just a few more stages to Granada.

We finally headed out, in a big group. It jelled into the inevitable paceline after a few km. Rob and our new rider Dennis were leading. They continued for a really long time, maybe 50 km until we reorganized after a failed attempt to find an open bar in a small town. All of this was through pretty boring, flat terrain, with a slight headwind. Next Wytze and Rob had the lead and held it to 72 km. It was more interesting riding now at least. We stopped for food and water even though there was nothing open. Daniel used the internet and phone to find an open bar in the town 5 km ahead. While we were eating cookies and drinking lots there, we got the word that Ype had the lunch set up at 80 km, just ahead of where we were. He had been delayed by what could’ve been a bad problem: Brian’s rear wheel gave up the ghost completely halfway through yesterday’s stage. He had to stay in Villarobledo until the bike shop opened, and get a new wheel or a new bike. In the end he was only delayed 1 1/4 hours and had a new wheel that worked!

We cruised up to lunch where most people were already eating. It was delicious as usual, but I made a little error and only drank one cup of drink and forgot to take an electrolyte tablet. I headed out with the regular crew, Wytze, Andrew, Daniel and Bart, and we cruised nicely to about 108 km. Climbing the last hill I felt cramps coming on in one leg. At the top I said I needed to stop and they were all super happy to stop at a little bar that was seemingly serving the whole town. The town was called Bienservida which was fitting. I counted it up and the five of us consumed four liters of liquid refrescos there. Plus I had electrolytes in two forms.

I felt good when we left, even though it was 3pm, the hottest time of the day and it was roasting. Right out of town the day’s biggest climb started. But somehow it wasn’t that bad and soon we were jetting down the other side.

We had a final 15 km to do, with a couple more climbs but then made it to Stiles where we stopped just in time as the bar was about to close. But they had time to give us all beers with some nice snacks: cold pasta salad with tuna plus salty potato treats.

Then we cruised the last 2 km to camp. I was reasonably flamed and sat down for a giant bowl of thick vegetable/noodle soup first. Others were peeling potatoes to help out Emily, the cook. Then I set up my tent, scoring a covered area, even though the chance of rain is exactly 0%. The shower was great. I did laundry, then found a place where the camp WiFi worked. Jan arrived and bought us ice-cream, thanks Jan!

Dinner was mashed potatoes, green beans, salad and grilled tofu with mushrooms for me. Yum! For once I didn’t like the wine but Jan was a hero and traded me a glass of beer for my wine. By 9 I was ready for a long sleep 💤

Stage 18 of 60, day 22 of 71: 136.6 km, 1261m, 5:17, 401 shifts, ave speed 25.8, max speed 65.6

Our second morning waking up in the campground in Cuenca was almost as cold as the first. We packed up, had a chilly breakfast, then rode out to the main road and along to Cuenca. Dick and Dennis were doing their first stages with us and I stopped at the campground entrance where Dick’s wife, Anke, was videoing to give her a big hug. We didn’t take the taxi route up to the old (high) town, but instead stayed low and cruised to the new town. My bike felt really light and the air was very crisp (three long sleeve jerseys plus two pairs of gloves).

When we rode in the sun it was heavenly but it was cold in the shade. We did a couple of climbs early on that helped and then pretty quickly, we were stopping to shed layers and then it was down to normal clothes. Soon, we let Wytze take the fast crew ahead – Daniel and I just rode along loving it. It felt like an example of why we love to cycle: gorgeous scenery, no wind, everything feeling easy and fast. We all stopped at a café for drinks around 40 km.

The headwinds did pick up for the last 15 km to lunch but it wasn’t that bad. Ype found a typical perfect spot, in a forest with our choice of shade or sun (shade for me of course), and massive amounts of delicious food.

After lunch it was time to ramp it up a little. I left with Wytze and crew and we stayed together the rest of the way. It felt like there was always a headwind and we were always going a little faster than I would’ve liked. But it was scenic and fun. Wytze is so amazing – we finally did stop at the top of a hill to regroup for 30 seconds, then at a café at about 120 km for drinks. But he led all that way, into the wind, holding 36 or sometimes even 38 on flat into the wind.

We ate snacks and had cold drinks and only had 13 km to go. I asked if we could have a “Holiday” for the rest of the way. Wytze said sure. We started out at my speed, 28, but before you knew it it was 32…then 33. Still ok as long as I was drafting. We got stopped by the Policia Local as we entered Villarobledo – they did not like our drafting style which covered the whole lane. We promised to do better and were allowed to proceed. They were checking car driver’s papers for something too but we never found out what.

Soon we arrived at the hotel – for the first time on the tour. It was wonderful to ride in and have a massive amount of snacks to choose from – Emily and Frank and Rob really were putting on a great post-ride feed. I ate first, then chatted with Katie, then took a shower up in our room. It had two things in it called beds, we hardly know what they are.

Downstairs out on the square, we had a few beers each, some more snacks, then I wrote this up. At that point it was 7:30, our dinner reservation time. Google gave directions, “30m away, mostly level”. Six of us took Ype out to dinner and even though it wasn’t a rest day, it was still a massive blow-out. I don’t know how many bottles of wine or courses or desserts, but lots of all of these. By this point we were rating the cheesecakes with the one in Zaragoza being the gold standard of 100. In Cuenca it was an 85 and here we had a 95. This time the final final course was coffee with brandy. Dinner lasted over three hours and was just stellar. “Living like kings” does not really do it justice. This life is hard to beat.

Our 4th rest day was September 23, 2023. Last night was the coldest yet; I think it was 3°C in the morning and I slept inside my sleeping bag, all zipped up. I got up, had a little breakfast and chatted for a while. At 9 the campground breakfast started so I walked down and ate with Dick, Anke and Bart. We were all meeting in town for lunch, so a few of us took a taxi around 10:30.

The old town of Cuenca is pretty amazing, over 1300 years old, up high on a dramatic hill. We were dropped right at the Plaza Mayor and wandered around looking for a while. Soon Wytze had a specific café as a goal and we walked down to the new city. This place was fully modern, just point your phone at the QR code on the table, press a few buttons and then magically drinks and amazing pancakes arrive, all paid for.

We had a walk back up along a small river to a super scenic pedestrian bridge over a gorge, then we were back up in the old town.

We had beers to pass the time until our lunch reservation. The restaurant we had picked was great. 8 of us shared course after course (lots of seafood), leaving the choice up to the excellent waiter. After four bottles of white wine we switched to red. Then dessert, then a second round of dessert then coffee with rum. Kind of repeating ourselves but why mess with such a great system?

We split up after our extended lunch, Daniel, Wytze and I staying in town. We took a bus back to the top of the old town and were thinking of riding the zipline down, but instead sat on a rock summit chatting for a long time. Maybe the most relaxing peaceful point in the trip so far!

After another drink stop at an outdoor café we took a taxi back. As it was getting dark, I had a wonderful video chat with Katie. Did I say how much I love WhatsApp? It’s the best thing ever to stay in touch. The sound and picture is so good. Then writing and a long sleep.

Stage 17 of 69, day 20 of 71: 107.5 km, 1200m, 4:29, 294 shifts, ave speed 23.9, max speed 61.5

We had a normal 8am breakfast but the unusual thing was how cold it was.

When we started out at 9 I had two jerseys on for the first time. For the first 5 km my fingers were so frozen! But luckily a climb started soon and I warmed up.

There were hints of headwinds so it seemed like we might be in for a repeat of yesterday’s super hard conditions. But no, the winds were friendly and the climbs easy and we soon found ourselves at a gorgeous spot for lunch.

We reformed the pace line after lunch and cruised to the town of Oña. It took some research but we found a little hotel that had an outdoor terrace looking over a lake. We had drinks and cheesecake, so relaxing. Bart actually fell asleep while we discussed politics. Note to self: avoid that.

Then some more riding, one more climb and down to El Ventano del Diablo, a gorgeous view point. All this time we were on very uncrowded roads with super clear blue skies. We dawdled a long time, met Ype, then finally cranked out the last 20 km to camp.

We rode that last 20 km, not in the van. The campground is huge, as in we are lucky to have bikes to get to the showers and bar. Anyway, I set up my tent, ate soup and snacks, then rode off to the showers. While I was showering I heard a voice, “Mr Hoover is that you?” It was Dick Prent, my good friend I originally met in La Paz in 2019. He is joining us here for the rest of the ride to Dakar. He showed me the glamping tent he’s sharing with his wife, Anke, who is here dropping him off. We headed straight to the campground bar and had beers and olives and great conversation until it was time for dinner.

I got to meet our other new rider, Dennis, also from Holland. Dinner was nice but I think most everyone was on expedition (not in shorts).

Today we have a special treat, a rider profile. I probably won’t get to everyone on the trip but starting at the top of the registration page, first is Harry Brown who I rode the Balkan Boulevard tour with in 2022.

How old are you Harry?

Age – in the head space 49, body 99 😩, actual 69.

Where are you from and how much of this crazy adventure are you riding?

I’m an Ozzie, therefore from Straya maaate! Live in Caloundra on the Sunny (Sunshine) Coast. Came to ride the full tour from Paris to Dakar. Hopefully the body holds up.

Tell us about your bike…

Purchased a new Jamis Renegade S3, Reynolds 520 Cromoly frame with carbon fork, gravel bike with hydraulic disc brakes. Tyres are 700 x 32 roadies although when I arrive in west Africa I might swap tyres to gravel, same size. Gearing is GRX, 2 rings with 10 cluster 11 – 37.

What do you hope to get out of Paris Dakar? Do your friends think you’re crazy?

I like Bike Dreams more challenging & adventurous tours, besides have for many years wanted to get to Morocco.

Most friends, Relos, acquaintances know I’m a little “different” so in many ways expect something like this of me. Some of course just don’t comprehend the the cycling of thousands of kilometers to experience different cultures in far off places.

I’m aware that my grown children admire, respect me for (still) “getting of my arse, getting out there” & enjoying what life has to offer.

Stage 16 of 60, day 19 of 71: 121.9 km, 1505m, 5:31, 375 shifts, ave speed 22.4, max speed 58.7

The numbers don’t tell the whole story today. We got started after breakfast around 9. The first 10 km was ok, then a pretty strong wind picked up. We had a couple of climbs, totaling maybe 800m, all into the wind. Going downhill was better but still with head or head/side wind for a long time.

I had a moment of luck, coming to a corner where we had to turn completely into the wind, right at the time Wytze and a couple of others were starting. I managed to catch them (hard) and was feeling pretty good drafting. We were holding about 17 kph. Then Rob cruises up, sizes up the situation, and takes the lead. Now it’s 20-21 and I could not hang.

Daniel and I rode together for a while and had a very nice food stop at a little bench sheltered from the wind.

From there it was another 12 km to lunch. Ype had a great spot, sheltered by the edge of a forest. All good things come to an end and we had to set out again, now with more people. There was a small town around 75 km where we caught Andrew and we detoured in to a bar where we had drinks and snacks. Anyway, we eventually made it to town; I was pretty flamed. We stopped at a bar for beers and snacks, very pleasant.

Then the last bit up to camp. A shower was first and it was great. Then soup, snacks and a nice call with Katie at home to raise my spirits. After a short nap, I gave my bike to Ype as the headset was loose again. It’s warm and cozy in my tent to write this before dinner.

Dinner was excellent as usual. Just a few of us still on holiday (according to Rob, if you’re wearing shorts you’re on holiday but if pants are required, then the expedition has started.)

Stage 15 of 60, Day 18 of 71: 125.7 km, 1651m, 5:34, 281 shifts, ave speed 22.6, max speed 58.4

After a pretty loud and bright thunder/lightening storm in the night, we had a civilized 8am breakfast.

We headed out of Zaragoza, mellow pace. I led for a while until Wytze took over and increased power. We were on a lightly travelled road, paralleling a main highway, but it wasn’t really scenic or special. Some stopped at a town at 48 km; I continued a bit more with Suzanne, and we passed through a couple of little villages that seemed to be mostly about wine making. We passed lots of grape vines, some still with grapes, others having been harvested. We stopped in a little town for bananas and snacks, the continued up the hill. There were a couple of climbs to lunch – Ype found another lovely spot with pine trees.

Since I had arrived early to lunch I left early and rode by myself but assumed the squad would catch me. The route went through about five little villages but I learned after the first one or two that it could be ignored and following the main road was quicker and easier.

Finally around 100 km, a friendly hand laid on my shoulder and we were back in the group. We rode together although the guys were really cruising fast on the up hills so I couldn’t quite keep up. But it wasn’t very far until we got to a nice downhill at 120 km to the town of Nuévalos, and don’t you know, we immediately spied a hotel with an outdoors bar. We had a couple of beers each, with olives and chips, then headed toward the camp. We had one last stop at a tiny supermercado to do some gift shopping for our excellent truck driver, Wijnand. It was his birthday today so we knew there’d be a celebration at dinner.

We found the campground and set things up. It was breezy so the wet tents dried quickly. After some soup, snacks and a shower, it was practically time to start serving dinner. We had fun on dinner crew and everyone liked the dinner. We started out with a Cava toast for Wijnand’s birthday. Bike Dreams had 4 bottles and we added a fifth. Then I presented him with our other present: a box of cookies shaped like nun’s breasts. With a severe/strange looking nun on the box. Dessert of course was a bunch of chocolate birthday cakes which we ran around serving. Then another epic round of dish washing.

Many people agreed the day was harder than the numbers might suggest. Quite a bit of the route had bumpy pavement and there were headwinds for a large part of the afternoon ride too. Well, we all made it and now get to sleep and do a similar day tomorrow.

Our 3rd rest day was September 19, 2023. It’s great to have a rest day after a big ride. I slept really well but expected to wake up stiff and sore from my crash yesterday. But no, I felt ok, even better than last night. It somehow doesn’t feel like it but we’ve ridden 1000 miles already.

I love rest days! I slept so well and it felt so great to not have to get up in the morning. I finally got up around 8 and we all hung out for a couple of hours – waiting for our turn for the one washing machine, bike love (for me just a quick cleaning and chain lube), reading, chatting, etc.

Wytze, Andrew, Bart and I headed out by bus for downtown to find breakfast. Near the center we had coffee (I had chocolate and churros), just great. The chocolate here is even thicker than I remember from other places in Spain. Like thick pudding. The churros weren’t great though so we headed a few blocks away to a real churreria. We passed a furniture store with a nice bed with lots of pillows on display. Wytze said, “I think I used to know what that was…” Chocolate and churros for everyone at the Churreria. Better but still not as wonderful as in San Sebastian. It’s good to have things to look forward to in the future.

Then we walked down to the Cathedral and checked it out. I think it’s the biggest one I’ve ever been in in my life! Maybe not the grandest but, wow, did they ever invest a lot in their cathedral. There was an electric car exhibit outside too. No Teslas but I finally saw one later in the day. It’s not like California here.

After a stop at another café to hydrate and recuperate, it was time to walk to Restaurant Saucco, where we had a reservation for lunch at 2pm. Soon Daniel arrived, then our guest of honor, Ype. We wanted to do something nice for our wonderful mechanic and lunch provider extraordinaire, so took him out to lunch for once. Saucco was amazing. We had the set lunch, three courses with seemingly unlimited wine and water. It was a multi-hour gastronomic feast, just epic. In the end, after the most amazing desserts ever, and three bottles of wine, Wytze wanted to continue and ordered a couple more servings of the best dessert (cheesecake) to share. These extra orders turned out to be even bigger than the regular ones. After this we still didn’t want it to end, so Daniel ordered a round of coffee with rum. I didn’t know that was a thing. By this time we were the only ones in the restaurant. This is truly living like kings, probably better though, due to the company and lack of bullshit. The combination of comradery, everyone’s stories, the superb food, and the change from our normal life is hard to describe, but wow!

We headed “home” to the campground on the bus, arriving around 6, and my plan is that I don’t need dinner. That meal will last until tomorrow. I love this life!

Stage 14 of 60, Day 16 of 71: 155.7 km, 1306m, 6:08, 360 shifts, ave speed 25.4, max speed 60.1

With a 7am breakfast, my alarm was set for 6:20. It was noticeably darker than the last time we got up early, but the overnight rain and lightening storm had passed and the forecast was for warm with no rain for the next couple of days at least.

We headed out just after 8, me in the back of the pack. I kept moving up, and ended up leading the paceline for over 10 km, and passing everyone else. It was a smooth fast road, up and down and we went through a series of many tunnels. Wytze asked what I ate for breakfast, then took over for the next 18 km to our first town.

I had a bit of a disaster but it could’ve been worse. We came into town downhill, me leading, and the car I was following slowed down. I slowed down too but then just as I was negotiating a speed bump, it stopped dead in the road. I couldn’t quite stop in time and crashed into the back bumper, sending me up over the handlebars and down onto the road. Luckily nothing was broken for me or my bike but there was a small dent in the car where my brake lever hit. Somehow the driver called his body shop guy who arrived before the police. The guy was very cool and spoke calm, clear Spanish that I could understand all of. The gist was “Let’s calculate the damages to the car together, then not involve the police or insurance.” I liked this idea especially when the first item, one hour of labor to fix the dent, was only €35. It didn’t take long and the bill was way less than any insurance deductible, so I hit up my buddies for spare cash and everyone was happy. Thank you Andrew and Bart! The police had arrived by this time and seemed mostly concerned about how I was. Once I assured them I was good, they left, uninterested in paperwork I guess. We retired to a café down the street and the guys bought lots of pastries and drinks and all was well. I had a couple of scratches on a couple of fingers and one on my chin – it must’ve just touched the ground or something. It was bleeding a little but didn’t seem bad. So we took off and rode a bit over 60 km to lunch, me maybe not at full power, but doing ok.

After a nice lunch we had another bit over 60 km to camp. It was up and down, with some headwinds and I have to really thank Andrew, Bart, Daniel and Wytze. They let me draft the whole way and slowed down when I needed it. Together, we made it all the way to Zaragoza, a big city of 675,000 people. It was beautiful coming into town and we detoured a bit to the cathedral and sat at an heladeria where I bought us ice-creams. Then Wytze said “How about a beer?” I said sure but Daniel and Andrew weren’t in. Wytze went in and then the waitress came out with four beers (of course). We all really enjoyed it and agreed it was a great call.

Then we rode the last 8 km to camp and set things up. Our tents were soaked so we got them drying first. Then soup and snacks. I had a nice shower and consulted with Dr. Bill about my chin wound, still barely bleeding. He said pressure and pressure did it, no more bleeding. We relaxed until 7pm for dinner time. Steak (veggie burger/patty thing for me) and chips and salad and velvet cake for dessert. It was Curt’s birthday and Kees’s tomorrow, so we sang. I was feeling fine drug-free although Dr. Bill thinks I’ll be sore tomorrow. I’ll take that as it comes. And I promise to take it easy and be more careful around cars. Good night – here’s to a nice rest day tomorrow!

Stage 13 of 60, Day 15 of 71: 94.2 km, 1582m, 3:51, 254 shifts, ave speed 24.4, max speed 70.1

After a nice 8+ hour sleep I woke up and had over an hour to read before getting up. I started reading the new Elon Musk biography. Breakfast was the usual at 8, then we left at 9.

We rode out of the campground and the first climb started immediately. It was a bit hot and sweaty but I felt strong for once and cruised non-stop to the top, 600m up.

The descent was nice and fast and smooth and the air cooled and dried me perfectly. There was a pretty valley below, then a second, similar but shorter climb. Ype was stationed on the summit and I had a couple of glasses of water but we had a different plan for lunch today: ride to the end and eat in a restaurant!

We blasted down, through some interesting tunnels, with some great cliffs, and basically just rode fast. Wytze took over leading and continued all the way to our destination, about 40 km. It was mostly downhill but into the wind. He was holding 40-55 most of the time, so I pretty much just held on. Getting dropped would not be good. Actually this was the first instance of my new bike performing way better than the old. My new top gear is more than 10% faster which made the difference between getting dropped and not!

We looked around Graus a little and settled on a restaurant right on the route. In a few minutes we had mineral water, chilled wine and appetizers rolling. It was super relaxing and fun; we stayed for two and a half hours waving to our compatriots as they rode by. Curt had a glass of wine with us and eventually Ype pulled up in the van with a couple of sick riders and joined us.

From there it was a few minutes to camp and we rolled in and set up our tents. All the cabins were taken as it’s supposed to rain tonight. We had soup and showers and all was well. Another great stage done.

Dinner was Mexican, with mushroom fajitas for the veggie people. Lots of chips, salsa and guacamole, beans and rice, delicious. Rob gave us the briefing for tomorrow’s 156 km ride to Zaragoza, where we have our next rest day.

Stage 12 of 60, Day 14 of 71: 102.8 km, 1848m, 4:46, 243 shifts, ave speed 21.6, max speed 70.1

It seemed like it didn’t rain after about 10pm, but sure enough, about 6:30am it started up again. Luckily it stopped for good right before I had to get up at 7:30. Everything stayed dry in my tent so that was a success. Breakfast was good, with banana smoothies as the “extra”.

We left exactly at 9 and I got out in front with Garth and Bart. We cruised down the valley, the pavement wet but drying. It was fast and smooth and I kept waiting for something to screw it up, like more traffic or potholes or something. Bart told me later he was thinking the same. We had averaged about 35 kph by the time we got to the Spanish border.

A little later we turned off and started up the first hill of the day. 18 km long and climbing a lot. This might’ve been our steepest climb yet and it was really humid from the rainfall. I was sweating up a storm but just cranked it out. I had a couple of stops for food (including blackberries), then was on top. After a short level section, the second climb started – I did it with Daniel who was sick, and Wytze. We topped out at over 1700m and Ype was right there with lunch.

From lunch it was a really nice descent, fast and smooth. We hit 70 kph and the dry air was so nice after being wet and sweaty.

After descending 1000m, the temp was quite a bit warmer. We regrouped and headed down the valley, but then there was a classic “Rob-style” turnoff. Instead of cruising down the valley on a main road, he had us climb over 600m on a tiny one-lane deserted road. It was quite nice really and once we made it to that summit, it was all downhill to camp. We couldn’t resist though, there was a little village below and Wytze said it must have a bar and they must have beer. Sure enough, he was right and it was great. I loved being able to order and talk with the owner.

A few more easy kilometers and we rolled into camp. I put up my tent to dry first thing, then ate lots. Major snacks and two bowls of soup. Then shower, laundry and writing. Some of us hung out in the afternoon reading the Bike Dreams Paris Dakar “Wiki Guide” which has a surprising amount of information on the many areas we’re cycling through on this trip. Then it was dinner time.