Paris Dakar rest day #3 – Zaragoza

Our 3rd rest day was September 19, 2023. It’s great to have a rest day after a big ride. I slept really well but expected to wake up stiff and sore from my crash yesterday. But no, I felt ok, even better than last night. It somehow doesn’t feel like it but we’ve ridden 1000 miles already.

I love rest days! I slept so well and it felt so great to not have to get up in the morning. I finally got up around 8 and we all hung out for a couple of hours – waiting for our turn for the one washing machine, bike love (for me just a quick cleaning and chain lube), reading, chatting, etc.

Wytze, Andrew, Bart and I headed out by bus for downtown to find breakfast. Near the center we had coffee (I had chocolate and churros), just great. The chocolate here is even thicker than I remember from other places in Spain. Like thick pudding. The churros weren’t great though so we headed a few blocks away to a real churreria. We passed a furniture store with a nice bed with lots of pillows on display. Wytze said, “I think I used to know what that was…” Chocolate and churros for everyone at the Churreria. Better but still not as wonderful as in San Sebastian. It’s good to have things to look forward to in the future.

Then we walked down to the Cathedral and checked it out. I think it’s the biggest one I’ve ever been in in my life! Maybe not the grandest but, wow, did they ever invest a lot in their cathedral. There was an electric car exhibit outside too. No Teslas but I finally saw one later in the day. It’s not like California here.

After a stop at another café to hydrate and recuperate, it was time to walk to Restaurant Saucco, where we had a reservation for lunch at 2pm. Soon Daniel arrived, then our guest of honor, Ype. We wanted to do something nice for our wonderful mechanic and lunch provider extraordinaire, so took him out to lunch for once. Saucco was amazing. We had the set lunch, three courses with seemingly unlimited wine and water. It was a multi-hour gastronomic feast, just epic. In the end, after the most amazing desserts ever, and three bottles of wine, Wytze wanted to continue and ordered a couple more servings of the best dessert (cheesecake) to share. These extra orders turned out to be even bigger than the regular ones. After this we still didn’t want it to end, so Daniel ordered a round of coffee with rum. I didn’t know that was a thing. By this time we were the only ones in the restaurant. This is truly living like kings, probably better though, due to the company and lack of bullshit. The combination of comradery, everyone’s stories, the superb food, and the change from our normal life is hard to describe, but wow!

We headed “home” to the campground on the bus, arriving around 6, and my plan is that I don’t need dinner. That meal will last until tomorrow. I love this life!

Paris Dakar Stage 14 to Zaragoza

Stage 14 of 60, Day 16 of 71: 155.7 km, 1306m, 6:08, 360 shifts, ave speed 25.4, max speed 60.1

With a 7am breakfast, my alarm was set for 6:20. It was noticeably darker than the last time we got up early, but the overnight rain and lightening storm had passed and the forecast was for warm with no rain for the next couple of days at least.

Putting on sunscreen by headlamp, time O dark 30.

We headed out just after 8, me in the back of the pack. I kept moving up, and ended up leading the paceline for over 10 km, and passing everyone else. It was a smooth fast road, up and down and we went through a series of many tunnels. Wytze asked what I ate for breakfast, then took over for the next 18 km to our first town.

I had a bit of a disaster but it could’ve been worse. We came into town downhill, me leading, and the car I was following slowed down. I slowed down too but then just as I was negotiating a speed bump, it stopped dead in the road. I couldn’t quite stop in time and crashed into the back bumper, sending me up over the handlebars and down onto the road. Luckily nothing was broken for me or my bike but there was a small dent in the car where my brake lever hit. Somehow the driver called his body shop guy who arrived before the police. The guy was very cool and spoke calm, clear Spanish that I could understand all of. The gist was “Let’s calculate the damages to the car together, then not involve the police or insurance.” I liked this idea especially when the first item, one hour of labor to fix the dent, was only €35. It didn’t take long and the bill was way less than any insurance deductible, so I hit up my buddies for spare cash and everyone was happy. Thank you Andrew and Bart! The police had arrived by this time and seemed mostly concerned about how I was. Once I assured them I was good, they left, uninterested in paperwork I guess. We retired to a café down the street and the guys bought lots of pastries and drinks and all was well. I had a couple of scratches on a couple of fingers and one on my chin – it must’ve just touched the ground or something. It was bleeding a little but didn’t seem bad. So we took off and rode a bit over 60 km to lunch, me maybe not at full power, but doing ok.

At lunch, my Paris Dakar jersey now sporting authentic blood stains

After a nice lunch we had another bit over 60 km to camp. It was up and down, with some headwinds and I have to really thank Andrew, Bart, Daniel and Wytze. They let me draft the whole way and slowed down when I needed it. Together, we made it all the way to Zaragoza, a big city of 675,000 people. It was beautiful coming into town and we detoured a bit to the cathedral and sat at an heladeria where I bought us ice-creams. Then Wytze said “How about a beer?” I said sure but Daniel and Andrew weren’t in. Wytze went in and then the waitress came out with four beers (of course). We all really enjoyed it and agreed it was a great call.

First course

Then we rode the last 8 km to camp and set things up. Our tents were soaked so we got them drying first. Then soup and snacks. I had a nice shower and consulted with Dr. Bill about my chin wound, still barely bleeding. He said pressure and pressure did it, no more bleeding. We relaxed until 7pm for dinner time. Steak (veggie burger/patty thing for me) and chips and salad and velvet cake for dessert. It was Curt’s birthday and Kees’s tomorrow, so we sang. I was feeling fine drug-free although Dr. Bill thinks I’ll be sore tomorrow. I’ll take that as it comes. And I promise to take it easy and be more careful around cars. Good night – here’s to a nice rest day tomorrow!

Paris Dakar Stage 13 to Graus, Spain

Stage 13 of 60, Day 15 of 71: 94.2 km, 1582m, 3:51, 254 shifts, ave speed 24.4, max speed 70.1

After a nice 8+ hour sleep I woke up and had over an hour to read before getting up. I started reading the new Elon Musk biography. Breakfast was the usual at 8, then we left at 9.

Basic but good breakfast

We rode out of the campground and the first climb started immediately. It was a bit hot and sweaty but I felt strong for once and cruised non-stop to the top, 600m up.

First pass of the day

The descent was nice and fast and smooth and the air cooled and dried me perfectly. There was a pretty valley below, then a second, similar but shorter climb. Ype was stationed on the summit and I had a couple of glasses of water but we had a different plan for lunch today: ride to the end and eat in a restaurant!

Second pass

We blasted down, through some interesting tunnels, with some great cliffs, and basically just rode fast. Wytze took over leading and continued all the way to our destination, about 40 km. It was mostly downhill but into the wind. He was holding 40-55 most of the time, so I pretty much just held on. Getting dropped would not be good. Actually this was the first instance of my new bike performing way better than the old. My new top gear is more than 10% faster which made the difference between getting dropped and not!

We looked around Graus a little and settled on a restaurant right on the route. In a few minutes we had mineral water, chilled wine and appetizers rolling. It was super relaxing and fun; we stayed for two and a half hours waving to our compatriots as they rode by. Curt had a glass of wine with us and eventually Ype pulled up in the van with a couple of sick riders and joined us.

From there it was a few minutes to camp and we rolled in and set up our tents. All the cabins were taken as it’s supposed to rain tonight. We had soup and showers and all was well. Another great stage done.

Dinner was Mexican, with mushroom fajitas for the veggie people. Lots of chips, salsa and guacamole, beans and rice, delicious. Rob gave us the briefing for tomorrow’s 156 km ride to Zaragoza, where we have our next rest day.

Paris Dakar Stage 12 to Spain

Stage 12 of 60, Day 14 of 71: 102.8 km, 1848m, 4:46, 243 shifts, ave speed 21.6, max speed 70.1

It seemed like it didn’t rain after about 10pm, but sure enough, about 6:30am it started up again. Luckily it stopped for good right before I had to get up at 7:30. Everything stayed dry in my tent so that was a success. Breakfast was good, with banana smoothies as the “extra”.

My modest but good breakfast

We left exactly at 9 and I got out in front with Garth and Bart. We cruised down the valley, the pavement wet but drying. It was fast and smooth and I kept waiting for something to screw it up, like more traffic or potholes or something. Bart told me later he was thinking the same. We had averaged about 35 kph by the time we got to the Spanish border.

A little later we turned off and started up the first hill of the day. 18 km long and climbing a lot. This might’ve been our steepest climb yet and it was really humid from the rainfall. I was sweating up a storm but just cranked it out. I had a couple of stops for food (including blackberries), then was on top. After a short level section, the second climb started – I did it with Daniel who was sick, and Wytze. We topped out at over 1700m and Ype was right there with lunch.

From lunch it was a really nice descent, fast and smooth. We hit 70 kph and the dry air was so nice after being wet and sweaty.

Photo stop part way down

After descending 1000m, the temp was quite a bit warmer. We regrouped and headed down the valley, but then there was a classic “Rob-style” turnoff. Instead of cruising down the valley on a main road, he had us climb over 600m on a tiny one-lane deserted road. It was quite nice really and once we made it to that summit, it was all downhill to camp. We couldn’t resist though, there was a little village below and Wytze said it must have a bar and they must have beer. Sure enough, he was right and it was great. I loved being able to order and talk with the owner.

Daniel’s sick and it was amazing he could do the whole ride. He’s super happy here. So are we all!

A few more easy kilometers and we rolled into camp. I put up my tent to dry first thing, then ate lots. Major snacks and two bowls of soup. Then shower, laundry and writing. Some of us hung out in the afternoon reading the Bike Dreams Paris Dakar “Wiki Guide” which has a surprising amount of information on the many areas we’re cycling through on this trip. Then it was dinner time.

Paris Dakar Stage 11 to Andorra

Stage 11 of 60, Day 13 of 71: 66 km, 1810m, 3:48, 128 shifts, ave speed 17.3, max speed 79.1

I slept really well after yesterday’s big climb, about 9 hours. Breakfast was scheduled for 8:00, unheard of luxury.

Pretty standard breakfast
Ype’s snack table is always popular in the morning

We started the ride a little after 9, and rode up to town, then the day’s climb started. It was an unusual day, with only one climb and only 66 km total distance to ride. But I had never before seen such a big single climb on my Garmin.

The 1925m climb turned out to be a slight over-estimation

We headed up and it was pretty consistent. Around 5-7% grade, occasionally a little steeper or less steep. The temperature was cool and nice but the traffic was pretty heavy. Andorra is an interesting country, a tax-free haven, so lots of people go there to buy things. For instance gas is €0.50 cheaper per liter, saving you over $2/gallon. There were construction zones along the way; one time we were forced to stop for 5 minutes which was a welcome chance to eat a bar and drink. It went on and on, counting off the meters of climb and km of distance.

One of the construction zones

After entering Andorra there was a giant “town”, really just huge parking lots and a bunch of stores and gas stations. The traffic after that was much less. Then I finally came to the top, the “Roof of Paris Dakar” as Rob called it, the highest point of our tour, just over 2400m. I chatted with some cyclists who had their bikes driven up from the other side and were there to do the descent into Andorra. They were impressed at our itinerary and took my photo at the summit.

The Roof of Paris Dakar

In the background of the photo you can see Ype’s Bike Dreams lunch van. I was getting hungry so it was a perfect time for lunch. After, I headed down with Wytze, cruising down the top switchbacks, fast and smooth. It was breezy so we didn’t hit really high speeds, but on one of them I just touched over 79 kph before having to slow for a construction zone. It’s nice to break the car speed limit on your bike!

Daniel’s photo of me descending with Wytze

It was something like 30 km and we did it non-stop, blasting through the little towns, like Canillo where I unicycled for four days in 2016. Taking the roundabouts at high speed was really fun. Pretty quickly we arrived at the campsite where the trucks had just arrived. So we did baggage unloading duty, then tent unloading duty, then set up tents. They were still wet from last night so it was good to get set up early, or so we thought.

The showers were great, then I walked over to a bar Andrew and Wytze had found. It was nice to be able to have a basic conversation with the bartender. As soon as I spoke Spanish, she switched from Catalan, the national language. The rain started as we walked back. I hung out in the tent writing for a while, then napping. We had dinner in the rain at 7pm, under some rain tents that worked pretty well. It’s supposed to stop during the night – I hope so!

We had interesting news from Bike Dreams headquarters in Holland today: we are actually going to cycle to Marrakech, but will not have two rest days there and leave by the planned route. Instead we’ll backtrack to avoid the earthquake epicenter area. It will add an extra day of cycling, so we get a little more for our money it sounds like. Bike Dreams is pretty good at adjusting to unforeseen problems.

Paris Dakar Stage 10

Stage 10 of 60, Day 12 of 71: 107.9 km, 1932m, 5:09, 211 shifts, ave speed 20.9, max speed 70.

The day started out pretty early. We had our alarms set for 5:45 since Beau had to get to an early bus. He packed up and left about 6:15 – it was so great spending time with him in Carcassonne but I wish it had been longer. Still, I’m super lucky.

I called Katie then headed over to the campsite. It was only 2 km away and it was already a little light just after 7am. We were lucky that breakfast was later again, 7:30. I got quickly back into the “Bike Dreams Bubble” and was soon eating a hearty breakfast. Sadly a number of riders had come down with gastro-intestinal sickness and were feeling bad. Still, this is a tough bunch and most were still riding, even when sick. Ype ended up giving four people a ride to camp.

Maybe slightly too small breakfast, but tasty

We left after 8:30, and rolled away on gentle roads. The info for today said 106 km with 2004m climbing, not exactly easy, but at least not too long. The usual suspects had a lovely pastry & drinks stop after about 28 km. Even the Iron man Wytze was affected by the sickness and could only stomach orangina.

First time I noticed the Tour de France orangina can label

We carried on and I have to say, it was really nice riding a little slower, relaxed and easier than usual. The climbs started and we got to lunch at 56 km after having climbed quite a bit. Ype had the full lunch set out – he is such a fantastic and integral part of the staff – he goes the extra mile to make everyone happy.

After lunch, we climbed a lot more, then had a pee stop on top of a climb. Kris rode by laughing, “What are you guys doing?” Andrew answered immediately, “Five shakes is a wank.”

The Bike Dreams firetruck passing us at a pass

Then we continued and finally stopped for afternoon refreshments at a café at 90 km, before the final climb. We did the tried-and-true “quatre eau minérale et quatre orangina” which worked perfectly as usual.

The usual

Then the final climb up to a new high point over 1400m. We stopped on top for summit photos, then blazed down.

The highpoint of the tour so far

Rob had warned us about lots of tight, steep switchbacks that require much care and he was right, but after some of this the road straightened and the surface was smooth and new, silky. I was riding by myself and kept telling myself to go slow and didn’t look at the speedo. But it turned out I went over 70 and couldn’t help passing a dump truck – on the inside, fast and fun. We rode through Ax-les-Thermes and just out of town found the campground and rode around a while to find the site.

First up for me was food. Lots of salty Japanese crackers, chips, then a big bowl of Greek salad, and some water. Perfect. Then I set up camp and had a nice warm shower and did laundry. Then I wrote this post. I guess it’s just a normal day in this life.

I reported for dinner duty at 6:30 and set up tables and benches, opened eight bottles of wine, set things out, then served dinner and dessert. Dinner was delicious rice noodles with shrimp curry on top, as well as spinach. There was a nice salad and lemon pie for dessert. Unfortunately some people were absent, and others not eating. Rob gave a briefing and Dr. Bill gave a talk about what might be causing all the sickness we are experiencing. Bottom line he doesn’t think it’s our kitchen or that it’s communicable and the #1 thing we can do to reduce it is wash our hands. The crew washed a million dishes, were treated with peanut M&Ms, then it was about 9 and I got ready for bed, for the last time in France on this trip.

Paris Dakar rest day #2 – Carcassonne

September 13, 2023 was our second rest day on this crazy adventure. The thing I was most looking forward to was spending time with Beau. Both of us have wanted to visit Carcassonne for a long time and it’s great we get to do it together.

Ah, a rest day! Not only could we get up at any time, but I was sleeping in a bed. We woke up before 8 and the rain had stopped. We walked down to an amazing bakery for breakfast.

Next up was the walk around the walls of the famous Cité de Carcassonne. We headed up and the line to get tickets was only about 5 minutes. We walked all through marveling at the amazing towers and exhibits. Even though it’s totally tourist oriented, it’s still great.

Afterward, we looked around the Cité and bought a few souvenirs. We were thinking of lunch but decided to put it off. Instead, we went back home and I had a nap while Beau went for a run. He came back happy and sweaty and after a shower it really was time for lunch. We walked downtown, looked at a few places, but not many were open so late (2-3 pm). Finally we found a place called Comptoir Ludique which was rated highly. We stepped in and were shocked: there were hundreds of board games to play (plus a good number for sale). There was no one there, but the owner was friendly and said yes to everything: Yes we can have lunch, Yes we can have wine, then to my most important question, Yes we have the game of Carcassonne! So we really did it: played Carcassonne in Carcassonne!

Besides playing the game, we had a mighty fine lunch
The copy of the game we played was signed by the author only a year ago!

After a long game (Beau crushed), and dessert, there was over an hour until our dinner reservation. So we walked around and stumbled into an Irish Bar within a block or two. It looked nice and had a dart board so we decided to play. The two guys there playing turned out to be cyclists, German and French. We all decided to have a EU vs US 501 tournament. Watching the German guy warm up was very scary as his form and scoring were both amazing. But the French guy was struggling as much as either of us. We had a great time, sipping IPAs and playing. They won the first game but we somehow came back to win the second and third, and thus became the Carcassonne 501 Darts Champions of September 13, 2023.

En-route to becoming Carcassonne 501 Darts Champions of Sept 13, 2023

They had to leave and we played a couple more games, then headed over to La Table de Marie, where we met Wytze, Andrew and Daniel. We had a lovely dinner with three bottles of delicious wine and dessert to die for. Why can’t there be another rest day?! They are just so good!

Beau gets to meet Wytze and Daniel

Paris Dakar Stage 9 to Carcassonne

Stage 9 of 60, Day 10 of 71: 99.5 km, 1317m, 4:08, 221 shifts, ave speed 24.1, max speed 64.2

Today was the last stage of a block of four rides from Le Puy-en-Velay to Carcassonne. There were a few drops of rain in the night, and it was cooler than we’re used to in the morning. Breakfast was the usual, plus porridge. Rob shared that because of the terrible earthquake in Morocco a few days ago, we would likely be changing the tour route and skipping Marrakech. But he reassured us we would be going to Dakar in the end. As planned, it’s 50 more stages! We headed out at 8:15, down the steep driveway from the campground. On the main road, the first 300m climb started almost right away.

Andrew modelling our Paris Dakar jersey on top of the first col

After the inevitable descent (a really great one, 10 km on silky smooth pavement, speed mostly 50-60+ kph), more than half the group stopped for coffee/drinks. The bakery next door was closed but we all had snacks with us.

Then there was a climb, up over 600m and right at the top Ype was parked with lunch. It was cloudy with rain vaguely threatening. But the few times we had actual rain it was light and didn’t last long. The ride from lunch to Carcassonne was short, only 46 km, and mostly downhill. A bunch of us were cruising together but Wytze put down the hammer about 10 km from town and it was hard to keep up. Daniel flatted and so only three of us arrived together. It was so amazing. I’ve been seeing the photos and wanted to visit for 20 years and LOVED seeing it in person. Even our first view from a few km away was great.

Wytze’s video of Andrew and I riding up by the famous Cité de Carcassonne
View from a pee stop, in the rain

It was raining lightly but camp was not far away. We managed to find it by ignoring the GPS track and lucky guessing. I packed a small backpack with things for a couple of days staying with Beau in an AirBNB. Others were also taking a break from camping. But the campground is pretty nice. Snacks were had, people set up tents, then we discovered that the campground bar was closed until 5:30. I walked my bike with Andrew and Wytze to the Cité de Carcassonne (thanks Wytze for carrying my bike up a ton of stairs). It was relatively crowded but Andrew said there were three times as many people when he was here last.

Celebrating another successful stage, and block of stages

During this time, Beau had just arrived on the TGV from Paris and was heading over to our AirBNB. I said good-bye and headed down, walking the steep parts from the Cité, then cruising a couple of blocks. As I got to the right number, Beau stepped out, “Hi Dad!” The place is really great and I am so looking forward to spending a couple of relaxing days with him.

After a call from Katie where I got to wish her Happy Birthday on the day, we walked around the modern part of the city, looked at few restaurants and eventually settled on a small but nice looking place called Les Artistes. They had a set menu with two choices for starters and two for the main course. We both had crispy toast with smoked salmon and salad, then I had the vegetarian dinner option, black rice and yummy veggies and Beau had chicken with potatoes. We each had a beer; the choice was blonde or ambre. I went with the ambre and it was a nice but quite sweet fancy French beer. You can see Beau’s “blonde” in the photo. He said his lesson was “If it doesn’t specify exactly which beer you’re getting, order wine.” But beside that, the dinner was just superb and an incredible value. Dessert was a cooked apple each, with cream and sweet sauce. Wow!

5 minutes after we got home, a storm broke out

Paris Dakar Stage 8

Stage 8 of 60, Day 9 of 71: 126.9 km, 2007m, 5:56, 306 shifts, ave speed 21.4, max speed 64.8

The 8th stage was fun, just over the average distance and over double the average climb. But today’s post is about food, not riding. It’s not because the food was amazing or anything, in fact it was quite ordinary for the tour. But I felt like concentrating on something other than riding. Well, first, we did ride under the tallest bridge in the world. So that’s worth mentioning. It was in the morning and it’s technically a viaduct: the Millau Viaduct. Its height is 336m (1104′). It was built from 2001 to 2004, and it’s awesome. It’s so tall that from underneath, you can barely hear the traffic driving above. Under it, we tried to guess the height and my guess was 150m, and no one guessed higher than that.

Ok, back to the food. Breakfast was a little unusual: for the first time on a Bike Dreams trip the optional dish was eggs with smoked salmon. There was also smoked mackerel, lightly cooked cherry tomatoes (also both firsts), plus all the normal stuff. This was all so good that I skipped the muesli. In France, instead of one or two types of cheese, there are typically four or more. And three or more kinds of bread or pastries.

Now that’s a great breakfast!

Bike Dreams is based in Holland and they do a ton of shopping for the trips at Jumbo (maybe roughly equivalent to Costco for Americans, also it’s pronounced Yuumbo).

Here are some basic add-ons, at every breakfast table

After breakfast, we rode and stopped in a small town at a café. Most people get coffee but I always get Orangina. Orangina goes well with the two main Bike Dreams snacks: Maxim energy bars and Sultana brand Fruit Biscuits. Also we sometimes eat our bananas at the first café stop.

The basic riding foods on European Bike Dreams tours

Then we rode a bunch more and at about 70 km it was time for lunch. Ype always delivers; it is SO nice to be able to count on a great lunch halfway through the ride. Today’s lunch selection was pretty normal although the chocolate cookies are rare. Sometimes there are dinner leftovers but not today. In France there always seem to be more than three kinds of cheese.

Typical lunch, salty things like peanuts, pickles and cocktail onions definitely FTW

After lunch, no surprise, we rode more. After some time we descended into a town and looked for a café. It wasn’t easy to find an open one but of course we did. In the afternoons, our drinks have stabilized to one Perrier and one Orangina per person, plus a beer on exceptionally tough stages.

It wasn’t a hard stage so no beer was required
This is one serving. The cost has been as high as €9 but can be half of that.

Then we rode to camp. In camp, you first have snacks and soup. If you get there too early, it’s not ready and you have to pay the penalty of unloading the trucks. But if you screw around at cafés enough, you can just start eating right away on arrival.

Then, there’s a break in eating for a few hours while you set up your tent, take a shower, wash laundry, but 7pm comes pretty soon and we’re back at it.

Typical dinner scene

Our cook is American but lives in northern Italy. She hasn’t repeated herself once so far and the dishes are always varied and tasty. Tonight was an Italian menu, sorry I didn’t take a photo of the fancy chalkboard menu she always makes. Then Rob parades the menu around to each table and very enthusiastically announces each dish. Tonight’s pasta was with cheese and lemon zest, and fresh parmesan on top. Delicious. The meat eaters had giant meatballs but I got zucchini with mushrooms. The salad was great with nuts and citrus and we had Rosé for the first time. I always drink water too. Dessert was tiramisu.

This is the vegetarian option for dinner, absolutely delicious

And that was stage 8 through the eyes of a food eater. I think I eat more than double the amount I do at home. If you were wondering, stage 8 was from Le Rozier to La Salvetat-sur-Agout. We stayed at a private campground with no other guests, 1.5 km up a steep little driveway. It was quiet, spacious and has a lake.

Paris Dakar Stage 7

Stage 7 of 60, Day 8 of 71: 128.4 km, 1324m, 5:05, 271 shifts, ave speed 25.3, max speed 60.2

It was another civilized breakfast at 7am, already light. I skipped the muesli again for French toast with jam and bread with cheese. We took off at 8 and had a bit of a steep climb out of the campsite to the main road. Then a glorious descent in the crisp, cool morning air. My record of not wearing any clothes with long sleeves or non-shorts since the tour started remains intact. We had mostly downhill for the first 20 km, then the climb of the day. It was starting to get a bit hot and it was a 650m climb over 13 km. At the col, Ype was there dropping off some riders who didn’t want to do the climb.

We cruised down the other side, quite fast and it was shady and cool enough to dry all the sweat. We had a wonderful stop in a scenic little village for drinks, apple pastries and bananas. Then the mostly downhill continued to lunch at 70 km.

Living large, as usual

There was little shade at lunch, but enough. After the usual delicacies, we said thanks and took off. We were now heading down the Gorges du Tarn, a beautiful and famous valley. There were more nice villages, old stone bridges and we rode through some tunnels and alongside vertical limestone cliffs. It’s a center for hiking, climbing, kayaking and canoeing – quite popular although we’re here after the high season.

We were getting pretty hot so stopped at a fancy restaurant for drinks. We ordered the usual (4 Perriers, 4 Oranginas with lots of ice) and the guy was momentarily confused, “But you are only four, oh I see, you will drink a lot.” From there it was only 22 km and we blazed that last, hot section fast. We pulled into the Municipal Campground of Le Rozier about 3 pm. I still had power in me, but was very glad to stop. Due to the net loss of elevation it was our fastest stage yet, averaging over 25 kph. We’ve now covered 875 km on this crazy adventure.

Camp has lots of trees for shade and we unloaded the trucks, then put up tents. Many snacks were had then it was time to swim. The pool looked ok but the sign frowns on our style of bathing suit. Just a little further is the river and we found Daniel down there. It looked perfect but was surprisingly cold. The kind of cold where you’re not sure if you really want to go in. But if you just dive in and float underwater for a while, you realize that whatever temperature it is, it’s absolutely perfect! I had goosebumps and my body was thoroughly cooled off. Next up was a round of soup, bread and water in camp, then a shower and laundry session, then writing this blog entry, followed by a nap until dinner.

We had another really nice dinner, instead of the Indonesian Beef I had shrimps with the peanut sauce. Quite tasty with mango milkshakes for dessert. It was only 8:30 after dinner but the heat hammered me today so I’m going to bed early.

Another fine dinner