Cherry Blossoms in Japan

Even though Katie and I had a fantastic trip to Japan just a few months ago, there was no way I could resist a chance to go again. Not only would I get to help support my son Beau attempting the longest trail running race of his life, but we had plans for a week-long adventure in some more remote parts of Japan where neither he nor I had ever been.

Katie dropped me off at San Jose airport on March 31 and the Zip Air flight to Tokyo was routine and comfortable. There are now many different ways to get to town from Narita Airport so I tried a new one, the Skyliner Train. It’s quick and let me travel half of the classic Yamanote circle line around Tokyo to get to Meguro station. I lived in Meguro ku (district) back in 1990-92, when Beau was born. He and Kaori met me at the station and we walked to their new apartment. It’s right on the Shinagawa/Meguro ku border; their wall is less than a meter from Meguro ku. We tried a new to them restaurant specializing in Oden, but we also had sushi and absolutely delicious black cod (gindara, 銀鱈).

I slept well that night probably because when I finally went to sleep it was something like 7am for my body. Beau and Kaori both had to work in the morning so I headed out on a walk. I walked along the Meguro River with so many cherry trees in bloom. I explored Nakameguro where I used to work, visited the new (to me) Meguro Sky Garden, then another new place, Don Quixote, in Shibuya. This is a crazy store, 7 stories, chaos, open 24×7, most things you could want are there but good luck finding them. I bought some interesting snacks and an umbrella.

I walked back to meet Beau for lunch. He took me across the street to a local place. The lunch special there was excellent: fish, rice, salad. Simple but so good. My cousin Jonathan, a long time Japan resident, came over in the afternoon and he and I had a nice walk along the river. Many people were out enjoying the cherry blossoms and the weather had improved quite a bit since the morning. We took the bus with Beau over to Hiroo where he had to drop some stuff off at the German Embassy, then we had a look through National Azabu, the luxury food store I remembered going to once in 1990 and seeing $6 avocados (they now cost under $2). We met Kaori for dinner at a Middle Eastern restaurant and WOW, it was great. I loved catching up with Jonathan too.

On the morning of April 3, Beau and I took the train to Haneda Airport and just like last fall when we flew to Okinawa, it was a really painless experience. Domestic flights in Japan are just easier and more stress-free than in the US. We flew to Osaka, had udon for lunch, then flew to the Oki Islands in the afternoon. We had not been there, and I don’t even know anyone who has. When we asked Kaori, who is from Osaka, she hadn’t heard of them. It’s a small chain of islands in the Japan Sea. We had reserved a rental car and picked it up, a very narrow boxy car that turned out to be handy for the super narrow roads on the island. It was great weather so we drove out to the north point of the island. We did a little trail run to a gorgeous spot called Shirashima Lookout. We drove a different way back and checked into our hotel, pretty modern and nice. We ate at a nearby restaurant, an amazing kai seki (many small dishes, elegantly presented) dinner featuring giant snails – I hadn’t had these since the 80s. What an amazing day!

The Oki Islands, we visited Okinoshima first, then Nishinoshima

We woke up and enjoyed the elaborate hotel breakfast, then had a whole day to explore the island. Unfortunately the weather had crapped out with rain and strong wind forecast for the entire day. First we checked out the UNESCO Global Geopark Museum at the port. Then, our fantastic navigator, Beau, routed us on quite a few interesting and adventurous roads. Most of the roads are barely one lane wide and the less frequented ones we drove were covered with debris from the recent winds and rain. We stopped and hiked to some waterfalls when the rain lightened up, and at one point sat in the car in a scenic pullout and had a nice video call with Katie back home in Santa Cruz. Lunch was sushi and onigiri from a store, eaten in the car too. Later in the afternoon Beau routed us to an onsen in the middle of the island. It was pretty nice with multiple pools to soak in, so relaxing. We made it back to the hotel and walked a short way to a restaurant for some scallops and local Oki soba (soba noodles cut short).

On April 5, we enjoyed the same giant and excellent breakfast as the day before then caught the ferry to Nishinoshimi, the other main Oki Island. It was about two hours, relaxed, reminding me of so many similar ferry rides when I lived in Japan. The car rental place was right by the port. I flashed my International License (absolutely required in Japan), and in about two minutes we were driving away in another comically small car. We aimed for a trail I had found that climbs from sea level up Mt Takuhi, the highest peak on the island. The road Beau picked was not shown on the list of recommended roads to drive but we made it, very similar to the roads on Okinoshima. We got down to the trail start in a village at the shore but I accidentally drove too far up and ended up having to reverse a long narrow way back to the real parking place. We headed up the trail and initially it looked ok with only occasional downed trees to climb over. Soon it got very steep and the trail pretty much vanished. It was theoretically possible to continue but not really and we were not psyched, so we turned around and laughed about it as we clambered back down. We drove back up to the real trailhead, halfway up the mountain and hiked from there. We stopped at the shrine after a lot of steps and continued to the top. After lunch on the summit, we ran down and it felt like that took only 10 minutes.

After the climb it was still too early to check in so we headed for a pretty beach that had wild, sculpted rocks everywhere. We had a second lunch, then headed into town and to our inn. We were the only guests and the owner was very friendly. The place is old and budget, and really reminded me of similar places I stayed 35 years ago on various bike trips all over Japan. When it was dinner time, our host checked with us, “You know Asuka is the only place open, right?” We said yes and walked over. Of course it was closed so we had to drive back to the port town of Beppu. The first few places were closed but Beau found a Ramen shop that was open and we had a nice dinner there. Normally I don’t really like these places because often every option has meat but the guy made me miso vegetable ramen that was great. We watched TV, good old NHK was refreshing to see – the format and content hasn’t really changed in 40 years.

After an early sleep, we woke up on April 6 to decent weather and enjoyed a good breakfast in the inn. We liked all the different rice topping (furikake) choices. We had saved the most popular place in the Oki Islands for today: The Kuniga Coast. The drive wasn’t too far and from the parking lot we could already see some of the impressive sea stacks and the view up to the top of the famous Matengai Cliffs. We hiked down to the beach then up to the top of the cliffs. The sea stacks and the incredible Tsūtenkyō Arch (multiple arches, giant size) were just great. It was cloudy and windy but not rainy so we were happy. I think this area would be super amazing on a perfect day. We sat in a shelter on top having a snack, then headed back down.

Our next target was a lighthouse at the end of another arm of the island and the drive there was on another super skinny road. When the road ended we started walking along the shore but it looked questionable. Sure enough after maybe 500m the trail was gone. We could’ve continued on the rocks but the incredible amount of trash on the shoreline was a deterrent for sure. We ended up heading back and calling it another fail.

We drove partway back then headed up some steep one lane roads to check out the higher observation points. We had a walk and another ‘fail‘ trying to connect to a trail to make a loop. Then another observation deck called Akao Lookout which had a good view of the Kuniga Coast plus a bunch of beautiful wild horses who were quite tame – they liked it when I talked to them and petted them. I think we were getting tired of being in so much wind so we headed back around 3:30. Beau went for a 10 km run. For dinner, we walked to a nearby restaurant. I had saba teishoku (set meal with mackerel) and Beau had chicken. Ice cream for dessert then back home to sleep.

 It rained and was windy in the night but looked better when we got up on April 7. We had breakfast at 7:30 and left after 8. We drove back to Beppu, then out the north road where we hadn’t been. We had time for one last classic Oki backroad and it did not disappoint. Curvy, steep, super narrow, debris-strewn, deserted and pretty. The sun was coming out and the whole outlook was nicer. We stopped at a shrine/Imperial Residence, then headed back. Dropping off the car was dead easy again. This time we had to pay a per km charge instead of bringing it back full. Gas for 106 km ended up costing under $20. We shopped for souvenirs and food, checked out the visitor center, bought our tickets and left at 10:20 on the same large ferry as before, the Shirashima.

It was uncrowded and relaxing. We walked on the decks in the sun. We landed at Sakaiminato in Tottori-ken at 1:20 and walked via the train station to our hotel. It is 12 stories tall, and quite modern. We had to wait until 3 so left our bags and had lunch at a seafood place. We both had maguro (tuna) ramen with a side dish of squid over rice with tobiko (flying fish eggs). We walked and looked at stores – the whole town is peppered with anime/manga character sculptures to honor Shigeru Mizuki who was born here. We checked in and got a great room on the 10th floor. Beau had a nap and I relaxed until it was time to go shopping for dinner. We bought lots at a supermarket. Then we did laundry in the free washers in the onsen on the 12th floor with free ice cream. We had sushi and sashimi for dinner in our room while it washed and soaked in the onsen while it dried. The sauna was 94°C, over 200°F and Beau managed to stay in for the prescribed 12 minutes. I lasted 5. It was beautiful looking out at the lights soaking in the 40°C pools. At 10pm it was time for free ramen in the restaurant downstairs. What a place – everyone was wearing the free clothes they provide. If you come too late, they give out free cup noodles from 11pm to 1am. We finished with the strawberry jello they provide in the room. If you stay in Sakaiminato you could do way worse than Oyado Nono.

We woke up on April 8th and had breakfast in the room. We went out for a walk, and soon Beau returned to work. I walked along the waterfront, to the lighthouse, then back along the Shigeru Mizuki street. It turned out the train to the airport wasn’t until 11 but there was a bus at 10:30 so we took that. We got off and had a short walk to the Yonago Airport where I had reserved a rental car. There was no Hertz counter but we looked it up and their partner is Toyota Rental Cars in Japan. I called from the Toyota phone and soon a guy arrived and drove us to the lot. It was a little more complicated this time, requiring a passport. We also got an ETC card for auto-paying tolls. But in a few minutes we were rolling toward Matsue.

Beau was a great navigator as usual, and took us over the famous Eshima Ohashi, then on a causeway and eventually by a more adventurous route to Matsue. He also had a soba restaurant all picked out and it was truly great. We shared soba with clams and a large assortment soba lunch with many great foods. From there we walked to Matsue Castle, marveling at how great everything looked in perfect weather. We crossed the moat and wandered up to the castle and bought tickets for the tower. It’s a 5 story building and there were quite a few people checking it out with us. I think it’s now my favorite Japanese Castle! We returned the back way, past school kids playing on the grounds, past the Lafcadio Herne museum, some samurai houses, back to the car. We had about an hour and a half going along the huge Lake Shinji, then along a gorgeous coastline on a one-lane road. Finally at 4:15 we made it to the Hinomisaki Lighthouse and it looked glorious. It’s the tallest in Japan, and we could see people on top but unfortunately we were 10 minutes too late. We walked all around, and had a private walk through a massive shrine nearby, then back to the car.

It was another hour to get to Yunotsu Onsen, on a wanna-be expressway some of the way. We arrived about 6:15 and found the check-in place next to an excellent looking restaurant. We got the info and keys, then drove to the inn and found our parking spot. The village is small, with very narrow roads; it must be a madhouse in high season. It was pretty quiet now. We found our room in the shared house. One other guy was in another room. We walked back to the restaurant, Kan. The guy welcomed us in – it seemed like THE happening place in town. We had the seafood special dinner and I had their local delicious beer. The dinner was rice, fish and condiments, plus a special raw egg. You mix pretty much all of it up with the egg, then pour over rice. Boy was that good! We upgraded to extra rice too. When we got home it was just after 8pm and the local onsen was open until 9. We grabbed yukata (men’s informal kimono) and put on geta (old fashioned wooden flip flops) and walked over. It was a classic old place with strict rules, even written in English: drink a cup of water first, wash off, go in for 2-3 minutes, come out, repeat many times, don’t wash yourself after but drink another cup of water. After all that you go upstairs to “rest” in a little lounge. It was after 9 when we left, so fun. I think the best was walking down the narrow street in yukata and geta and the few other people who were out were dressed similarly.

I slept really well – the futon here is two layers, a nice thick bottom one, then a second one with a sheet around it. Beau had a call at 8, then he went out for breakfast at the cafe – I wasn’t hungry. We both worked until 11, then walked to the grocery store for lunch. We got onigiri, bananas and more and then headed out of town on a route I picked out. We got to the coast and the trail around Kushi Island seemed to be real. We walked around it and had lunch on the backside. There was one section where the trail died in a thicket but we were just able to push through the stickers etc. We saw a lively big green snake, then headed back. To avoid retracing our steps all the way we tried to find the trail on the map coming down to town from the abandoned school (or whatever it was). We climbed a fence, then found the trail but it was super overgrown in a bamboo forest. We slowly picked our way through and finally came out near a road up from town – success!

I relaxed after we got back while Beau went on a 10 km run. It was raining most of the time, sometimes hard. Around 7 we walked down the road to a Nepali Restaurant. Dinner was dal bhat with other stuff – good but not exceptional. They only had my least favorite beer (Asahi Super Dry) so I had Nihon-shu (sake) but it was average. We walked back in the rain and tried to sleep. But the place was pretty much full tonight and the walls were so thin it was loud. Also the window panes rattled in the wind a lot. I think it was 1am before I actually got to sleep.

In the morning of the 10th of April it was still raining quite a bit. We checked out at 10 and drove east on small roads all the way to Kitahiroshima, about 70 km. It was 11:30 and Beau picked out an Okonomiyaki restaurant. It was in the countryside but very popular. We were 10th in line! We shopped for more Tough Gummies nearby, had a video call with Katie then finally got to go in after noon. We ordered and the cooks were very busy so it still took a long time. We ordered “double” and while cooking they were HUGE but the cabbage cooked down so they were only very large when served. I have to say it was an amazing first experience of Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki for me. We finally left after 1pm and drove the rest of the way to Hiroshima. First stop was a gas station, ¥2200 ($14) for 250 km of gas. Then we dropped off the car by the station, and caught a street car to our hotel.

We checked in and Beau went to get Kaori who had come by shinkansen with his bag of race equipment. Once he was organized I went with him to check in for the race. You must carry waterproof rain pants, jacket, survival blanket, whistle, two headlamps with spare batteries and various other things. They carefully checked. We walked home along the river by the Atomic Bomb dome, aka the Hiroshima Peace Memorial. Pretty much right away we headed out with Kaori for dinner. We met Oliver on the way and ate at an Italian Pizza/Pasta restaurant. We met their friend Karthik and his wife and daughter. We had a big and relaxed dinner, then bought groceries for breakfast and walked home. I watched a little Disc Golf then went to sleep.

The alarm went off at 6:30 but I was already awake. We met at 7:15 and walked to the starting area. Beau, Olivier and Karthik got ready, very excited. It was perfect, cool, clear weather. The event photographer took a shot of us, then a local TV station asked to interview the three non-Japanese racers (actually there were two more in the 109 km and a couple more in the 50 km). The opening ceremony was done by a radio personality with an organizer translating to English. Around 8:30 we all walked over to a giant boggy field for the official start. After last minute bathroom stops and photos the countdown started and they were off, right at 9 am. There were 219 registered 109 km racers and Beau was 113th across the line.

Kaori and I walked to the castle but it had just closed a few weeks before due to not being earthquake safe. So we walked back and she took a nap while I relaxed until 11:20. Our plan was to meet the runners at a couple of the aid stations in the middle of the day. We took the tram to the station but it was delayed so we just missed our train by 30 seconds. Half an hour later we caught the next one. The Kamifukawa Station was so small and old fashioned. We saw a runner come by and checked his bib on the results – 14th place. Beau and Olivier had moved up to 97/98th place at the first station and then to 74/75th at the second so we had some time. We checked out a shrine and walked to the river and ended up waiting in the shade near the station. The air was only 22℃ but in the sun it felt hot. Finally the two of them came running up and we gave them both big hugs. They were both in great spirits and had advanced to 57/58th place. Karthik was 20 minutes back. We walked with them for maybe 500m chatting about their run, then they headed off, up another giant hill.

Kaori and I took the train back two stations then transferred to a bus, then a second bus, finally getting to the town of Obayashi. We got off at an Okonomiyaki restaurant. We were the only customers. Two friendly women owned the place and were quite interested in the race but had not heard about it coming through their town. The okonomiyaki was great, this time I had it with udon and seafood, also “double”. Beau and Olivier were still a ways out so we took a leisurely walk that included a stop at a cool shrine. At the 4th aid station, in a school gym, the staff were really nice. We were the only supporters it seemed and they invited us in. There were changing tents, lots of food and drinks and places to sit. All the drop bags were spread out on the floor. Outside, we cheered on the runners as they trickled past. Soon we saw Team Beau/Olivier coming and they looked great! More hugs and we all went to the aid station. 8:47 for 47.7 km and they had moved up to 46/47th place. They relaxed and ate for quite a while, their one long stop during the whole race. When they found the udon ration was just one bowl per racer, Olivier pulled out Cup Noodles from his drop bag – pro move. Beau changed his shirt but decided to stick with his old and blown out but comfortable shoes. We said goodbye and they headed off – it was getting close to dark so they had headlamps ready.

We walked back to the Okonomiyaki restaurant and caught the bus from there. While we were waiting we had a video call with Katie who was up at 2:38am! The ride back was about 50 minutes, direct. We walked home from the station via our supermarket (Your Liv). First thing up for me was a soak in the onsen. It’s on the second floor, one big pool at a perfect temp, 41℃. I had some sushi and watched disc golf. I tracked Beau and Olivier as they got to the 5th aid station, at 59.1 km in 11:28, now in 45th and 46th place. Right before I went to sleep they hit the 6th aid station at 75.9 km, improving to 39th/ 40th place at 11:55 pm (14:55 racing time). It’s hard to believe but 4 minutes later, the first of the elite invited runners finished in 14:59:35, just Wow.

We had set a time of 4:50 am for a check-in so I set my alarm for 4:49. It jarred me awake then Beau shared their location. They had improved to 35th/36th place by the 7th aid station, at 82.1 km with a time of 17:18 at 2:18am and were nearing the 8th station. They made it there in 20:29 at 5:29am, moving up three more places. The AI was predicting a finish at 9:57 but Beau thought they could make it before 9am. Kaori and I decided to leave at 8am and meet them at the finish. At the 9th station at 97.6 km they had moved up one more place by 6:55am, predicted finish 9:32am. But they crushed the last leg which was mostly flat. We were two minutes away by the Atomic Bomb dome when the text came: Finished! We found them at the finish line, looking very “finished” indeed! Their final time was 23:12:30, and their places were 31 and 32 (36/37 overall since 5 women were faster). Beau took 5th in his 30s age group and Olivier 11th – stiffer competition for the 40s. How great that they paced each other the whole way and completed each section 1 second apart. How often do you spend over 24 hours awake with one person the whole time?

Their motivation to walk back to the hotel was exactly zero. Kaori called a taxi but it couldn’t reach us at the finish so it was a slow walk to the street. Then back to the hotel for some sleep. WOW! What an accomplishment. Beau’s Strava Activity says 112.94 km, 19:36:37 moving time and a staggering 6,712m of climbing and descending. That’s 70.2 miles with 22,000′ of climbing AND descending, some of it ridiculously steep, all with no blisters!

We all had naps after that, and met for lunch at 2pm. We walked slowly to an Udon restaurant and the runners ordered big. We saw Karthik had just passed the final aid station and was headed for the finish. He ended up beating the cutoff by just over an hour finishing in 30:56:58, what an effort!

After Kaori headed off to Kobe to visit her sister, we got together again with Karthik, his family and Olivier for dinner at a nice Izakaya that advertised lots of veggie and vegan dishes. Its best feature was how close it was to our hotel. Beau was not walking fast, that’s for sure. It was a relaxed time and I was so impressed with how good Karthik looked after his 31 hour effort. We all got some ice cream from a convenience store afterward. Olivier, Beau and I ended up soaking in the Hotel Onsen around 9pm. I think the two of them loved it even more than I did!

In the morning Beau and I had breakfast in his room, packed up and took the tram to Hiroshima station. We left plenty of time for delays and for not walking fast. We bought classic bento box lunches at the station and I found a real surprise, a special bottle of local Hassaku beer. Our shinkansen left right on time at 10:18 and within minutes we were blasting along at 300 kph. What a transportation system Japan has built! It’s so comfortable and efficient, it’s no wonder so many people use it. It stops for about two minutes at just a few stops and the four hours passed quickly – we both had a little nap in there. It’s super convenient to get off at Shinagawa and then just a couple of stops to Meguro Station.

It was great to get to Beau’s apartment since we were both carrying somewhat heavy bags. A little while later we took the subway downtown to Hibiya and walked to the Toho Theater. We followed the signs to Screen 12 and walked in to the beautiful, large underground theater. I had bought our tickets online, seniors ¥1300 and regular ¥2000, similar to the US ($8 and $12.50). Seeing Project Hail Mary a second time was fantastic. I really got more from it and Beau loved it as well. See it on the biggest screen possible if you haven’t yet.

We took the subway back to Ebisu, Beau’s old station. We went to our favorite ramen place there, Afuri, hoping they might have their legendary yuzu beer in stock this time (they were out both times we went last fall). We were in luck with the beer but their one veggie dish I love so much, Rainbow Vegan Ramen, was the one thing they didn’t have. Beau’s plan: just enjoy the beers and go somewhere else for dinner: PERFECT.

I remembered a tiny local fish restaurant called Senryo that Beau and taken me to with Katie and Jonathan, but he’d never been there for dinner. We gave it a try and ended up having the most fun dinner of the whole trip. It’s run by an older couple and there was only one other customer. We joined her at the counter and had a two hour feast with sashimi of scallop and hotaru ika (aka Firefly Squid, a glow-in-the-dark small squid from Toyama-ken). We had grilled fish, rice, some amazing snails, and half of a delicious giant eggplant cooked with miso, so perfect. We each had sake, served the classic way: a glass inside a wooden box, filled way past overflowing. We chatted the whole time with the owners and the other customer, Megumi, a local. After we finished eating, there was lots of talk of drinks and they gave us quite a few samples, local shochu, a special one from Okinawa, and even glasses of beer when the conversation turned to beer. They were so warm – what an experience.

The next morning was my last full day in Japan. Somehow, I managed to sleep until after 8am – I woke up not knowing where I was to find Beau had been up, working silently for a while. He made us his standard breakfast, then I went out for a walk, going down the Meguro River where I hadn’t walked before. I got back just at 10:30 which was 6:30pm in California, time for family zoom. We chatted for an hour, mostly family members curious about Beau’s amazing 110 km race. After that it was time for lunch so we walked to Beau’s favorite but slightly further away supermarket for bento lunches. Mine was Gindara (block cod) at a cost of $4.13! How could there even be such a great thing? We shared some sushi as well.

After lunch I took a trip to Harajuku and did some gift shopping at the store I remembered from 1992, Oriental Bazaar. It’s moved to a smaller space, just off Omotesando near where it used to be. Still the same high quality for a fair price with very friendly service. I got some presents, had a quick look at the entrance to Meiji Jingu, then headed home.

We took the subway across town to Tokyo Skytree where I had reserved us tickets. We got in the elevator and it took off. There was a elevation and speed display and we just stared at each other…how was this even possible?? In a few seconds we were going straight up at 600m per minute but there was no perceptible acceleration at all, just your ears popping. You have to experience this to believe it. In under a minute, we got off at the 350m level and checked out the gallery. It was a bit crowded. The view in every direction was great, WOW is Tokyo huge. There were giant screen 8k time lapse displays pointing in each direction taken in perfect conditions. It’s staggering. You have to see this if you get a decent day in Tokyo.

After a while we went up the final elevator to the 450m level. The view is even more amazing although you’re so high that you actually can’t see stuff on the ground as well. Tokyo Skytree was completed in 2012 and is 634m high, the 3rd highest building in the world nowadays, but not for long. The deck at 350m (1150′) holds 2000 people and the deck at 450m (1480′) holds 900 people. The main purpose of the building is actually telecommunications. It had to be over 600m high because there are so many tall buildings in Tokyo. But it was also designed as a major tourist attraction and as a “catalyst for revitalization of the city”. What an accomplishment!

We spent 90 minutes then took the subway back to Harajuku. We tried out the Baird Brewing brewpub for first dinner and it was great. I sampled a Pale Ale, a yuzu ale and a chocolate mint porter. And some tasty food. Then we went back to Meguro and bought second dinner of sushi and bento to have at home. Jonathan had left us a Left Hand Brewing nitro stout from Colorado and boy was that tasty.

I woke up on April 15 a little early, my last partial day in Tokyo. We had another great breakfast and while Beau worked I took off on the train for Takao-san-guchi. Katie, Beau and I had climbed Takao-san last fall but this time Beau supplied me with a more interesting route. I started hiking up a deserted side-trail from the town at 9:30. It was steep up but nice in the woods. It was cloudy and cool, perfect for a workout. I followed the route, through some unmarked turns, onto a more main-looking trail. Over the next 10 km I saw lots of people out enjoying a midweek hike. The route follows a ridge, with lots of up and down. Finally I crossed a road via a bridge and stopped at a sign just after. I heard a rustle and looked, and there about 3m away was a friendly little tanuki. At least that’s what I thought it was. That translates to Japanese Raccoon Dog but it’s possible he was an actual Japanese Badger. Regardless, we had a nice moment and he is now a YouTube star.

After this encounter I headed up the backside of Mt Takao, many many stairs, and finally came out on top. I couldn’t believe the crowds! I thought Japanese people are famous for working hard – they were out playing like me in force this Wednesday. I had ice cream and onigiri then walked down a different path from the one we took last year. At the bottom I was in luck: the Special Express train was leaving in just a few minutes. It took me back to Shinjuku in only 52 minutes and soon I was back at Beau’s apartment.

After a shower I packed up and then we headed to the station. I bought a few youkan to take back to use to power me on bike rides, then we had to say good bye at the station. I couldn’t put into words how much this trip meant to me, and the fact that the two of us won’t see each other for 6 months is sad, but we shared so much this time it was wonderful. I regret not taking one last photo just for fun, but I guess this post proves that we got quite a few during the last two weeks!

I had an easy trip to Narita on the Skyliner, onigiri and kakinotane for dinner while waiting, then an easy Zip Air flight back to SFO. After some time chatting with my friend Gary who was amazingly on the same flight, I took Bart, Caltrain then Uber to get home to Santa Cruz.

A trip to Alaska!

A few days after I got back from Italy I found myself driving to San Jose to start a 3-week trip north with my mom, Vicky. At the station, I got to hang out with my sister for an hour and return her car. The Amtrak Coast Starlight train goes from Los Angeles to Seattle. I boarded around 8pm and in Emeryville, my mom joined. We set up our little “roomette” sleeping compartment then had a drink in the observation car.

The nice thing about this route is that you go to sleep soon after boarding then you wake up cruising past Mt. Shasta. The day passed easily, eating in the dining car, talking to other passengers and looking out.

After dinner, we pulled in to Seattle and were met by my aunt and uncle. They live just north in Edmonds and it was great to finally see their new place. They have a great view of Puget Sound, with ferries crossing etc. In the morning we did some shopping for our ferry trip, then had a great lunch with two of my cousins. All too soon we had to leave to drive up to Bellingham to catch our ferry. It was exciting boarding and I rushed up to the top deck, the Solarium, where deck passengers sleep. I snagged us two of the last covered spots just missing out on the long deck chairs. Sleeping flat on the deck that’s covered with a soft carpet is probably more comfortable anyway.

Around 6pm we finally took off, the start of a relaxed three days cruising the Inside Passage. The first day on board there were no landings; we cruised north past the length of Vancouver Island. The second day, we stopped at Ketchikan, Wrangell and Petersburg. We got off at each stop and walked a bit. The weather was mostly drizzling rain, but we remembered to bring umbrellas. There are heaters in the ceiling of the Solarium and the first night I was too hot, sleeping out with practically nothing on. But the next two nights it cooled off and was fine. My new ultralight 425g sleeping bag worked great.

The third day we stopped at Sitka where I had never been. The terminal is far from town so I took advantage of a bus that drove into town and guaranteed I’d be back in time to the ferry. My mom met a friend at the ferry terminal and had a nice reunion. I had about 90 minutes to walk around Sitka and was able to walk to the Totem Trail, the famous route that passes a bunch of Haida and Tlingit poles. It was around 6am when I got there, so I had it completely to myself, which was a little creepy due to all the “Warning: Lots of Brown Bears around here” signs. But I did the whole trail, walked back to town, saw one of the Russian churches and walked up to the site of an old Russian Castle. There were many signs about the history, the Tlingit vs Russian battles, the sale of Alaska to the U.S., etc.

Back on the ferry, I took a nap since we got up before 5am. After lunch, we landed at Juneau and again, the terminal is far from town. So we just walked a little bit, then hung out on board until we left for the final leg to Haines. We arrived at Haines after midnight and our friend Irene was there to pick us up. We had stayed with her in 2017 and 2018 on our last two trips to Alaska, so it was familiar driving to Haines, then out to her place, switching cars at the bottom of the last two km steep 4WD road to their house. It was after 2am when we went to sleep, so peaceful in an off-grid house in a gorgeous noise-free setting.

In the late morning the drizzle stopped and the sun actually came out – first time I’d seen it since California! We went for a great hike to Rutzebeck Lake. It was so nice sitting in the sun at the shore. In the afternoon after lunch, Ben and I went for a bike ride. He lent me his fat bike and we cruised down the driveway, then on the paved road part way back to town. We looped back up a dirt road and visited a friend of his, inspecting a cabin that had sadly just been broken into by a bear, then drinking local Haines Brewing Black Fang and talking (local) politics. l learned a lot.

The route back had some exciting single-track, very overgrown, but the fat bike just goes no matter what! Climbing back up the driveway wasn’t as tough as I expected and the big bike felt lighter and easier than I expected too. We had a delicious pasta with salmon dinner then settled down to sleep.

In the morning, I didn’t feel quite right, a little queasy, but that passed during the day with the help of a nap. I still felt weak and it was raining in the afternoon so we didn’t do anything special until it was time to go to the ferry. We drove down, checked in, then had time to drive down to the end of the road where neither of us had ever been. The road ends at Lutak Inlet and we went up the river a little to Chilkoot Lake, a huge, glacial lake. It’s gorgeous with waterfalls coming down the cliffs and clouds up high on the mountains.

With Irene and Ben at Chilkoot Lake

Back at the terminal we boarded the Hubbard, a smaller ferry, and took it to Juneau, arriving about 10pm. A friend brought us a car and we drove to another friend’s house, right on the water near Auke Bay. I was feeling better so had some dinner, then settled in an upstairs bedroom with a gorgeous view out over Auke Bay. In the morning I felt fine and cooked up some eggs with smoked salmon my mom’s friend in Sitka gave us and we took it easy the rest of the morning.

The view from our living room window, Auke Bay

Our trip is about a third over. From here we’re off to Anchorage, Homer, Dutch Harbor and Cold Bay via ferry, Anchorage again, Adak, then home.

Tutti Dolomiti Stage 6

Cortina d’Ampezzo to Misurina

Strava: 15.29 km, 733m, 1:21, 56 shifts

We woke up to dismal looking weather, drizzly rain, cold, low clouds and a poor forecast. During breakfast a new plan was announced for the day: leave later at 10am and ride up to tonight’s hotel in Misurina, do the Tre Cime climb in the late afternoon when the weather improves. We left in cold rainy conditions but I was not cold climbing up and up to the Passo Tre Croci, another pass included in the Giro d’Italia from time to time. There was a coffee shop at the pass and some of us stayed over an hour, drying out and relaxing.

We geared up for the short, cold descent to Misurina at a beautiful lake. The rain was light and soup was being prepared lakeside. While Wijnand cooked, we went inside the hotel and had drinks and warmed up. Then we checked in and then headed out to have a great lunch with hot soup, under some tents. When I went back in the hotel, Mike was getting ready to do the Tre Cime climb but I decided to skip it – I had done it in nice conditions before and just could not be bothered. A large number of people opted out as well.

I gave my bike some love (cleaning), chatted over beers, read, had a short nap, then it was dinner time. We all converged in the beautiful dining room for another gigantic Italian dinner. I laughed at myself when I made the exact same mistake as the other night: I thought the buffet was the whole dinner so I filled a plate massively, then found there were two more full courses to follow. This buffet was the best, so much variety, delicious. Then I had pumpkin risotto and passed on the second course. For each table of six people, two bottles of wine were provided, plus infinite water. Maybe the best part of the whole dinner was the view out the window, just amazing. And strawberry cheesecake for dessert.

It was a nice day other than the weather, light on riding. But we’ll make up for that tomorrow…

Tutti Dolomiti Stage 5, Wow!

Canazei to Cortina d’Ampezzo via the Sellaronda

Strava: 93.54 km, 2,800m, 5:46, 234 shifts, max speed 71.2 kph

What a day! Even with a slightly scary afternoon weather forecast, a number of us split off from the official route half way up the Passo Pordoi, about 6 km into the ride. Instead, we climbed the Passo Sella, named for the famous group of mountains here called Gruppa di Sella. The famous circuit around them is called the Sellaronda. You can ski it in the winter or bike it in the summer. The bike loop is something like 53 km with 1,600m of climbing. There are no flat parts.

The views as we climbed were always changing and from the top it was incredible. There was a little terrace were we sat in the sun and added clothes for the descent. Down the back side was relatively short and we stopped at the bottom to strip down for climbing again. I heard a pumping noise passing behind me VERY fast and wondered what it was. I turned to see 8-10 riders from the Bahrain Victorious Development Team, out for practice. They hammered SO damn fast it was unbelievable. As we climbed Passo di Gardena, several of their guys were doing circles around us, doing some exercises or something.

This second pass was similar to Passo Sella in gradient but shorter. Soon we were on the summit with awesome views all around. Again, layers added, again a fast, smooth descent, a little longer. Then we climbed the third pass, Passo di Campolongo. Again, not too steep, but consistent.

As we descended Passo di Campolongo, the clouds got darker and it rained a little, but stopped right when Nick had a flat. We had just started fixing it when Dion drove up in the van. It was very convenient to have a real bike pump!

Flat fixing Committee, lots of people, few of them actually doing anything

Lunch was just a few km ahead, at the most gorgeous spot ever, and when we arrived around 14:30, it was sunny and warm. Ben was so patient to wait for those of us who added quite a bit of extra time by riding the Sellaronda and stopping so much for the view.

Finally we had to go and then the real fun (sarcasm) started. The climb up Passo di Giau was another one like Passo Fedaia, long and very steep. We made it maybe a third of the way before I had to use my “emergency gear”, 44×50, but then I used it for a lot of the remaining climb. Half way up it started to rain, light at first, but then with more determination. We could not go fast because the grade was so steep so it seemed like we were doomed to just be soaked for a very long time. It hailed a little too. But after a couple of km, we spied a big blue hole in the clouds, and sure enough, soon the sun was out and then the rain stopped. Mountain weather. We summited in sun, quite warm. The view was awesome and we were SO happy to have made the last climb of the day.

The descent to Cortina d’Ampezzo was only 16 km, but we had to take it a little slow with the wet pavement. The temperature warmed as we dropped but with my wet clothes I just got colder. It was pleasant down in town, and we quickly stashed our bikes in the garage. We had arrived just before 5pm, a full day at the office. Strava said the ride duration was 8 hours and 9 seconds. Mike took a shower first and when I went in the bathroom and felt the heat in the air, it was amazing. Then I got in the water and realized again that hot showers are probably at the top of the list of benefits of modern life. After washing my hair I thought, “I wonder if I could stand it even hotter”, so I cranked it and I could. AWESOME! This is a pretty amazing life. The Dolomites of Italy are a cyclist’s dream.

There was no organized Bike Dreams dinner tonight so at some point when we got hungry I found a highly rated pizzeria but we peeked in at the hotel restaurant and at the menu and decided to eat there. We had a great dinner, with appetizer and desserts. Mike has caught my cold 😞 so is off alcohol but I had a nice unfiltered Dolomites beer. We had a walk around town after dinner, then retired before 21:00. A long, deep sleep is required tonight. Tomorrow, Tre Cime di Lavaredo beckons, a hell of a climb, I know from doing it in 2023.

A rest day in Canazei

May 25, 2025 was the first rest day on the Tutti Dolomiti tour. It felt great, sleeping in. And I had the best sleep of the whole trip so far; climbing over 3,000m helps with that I guess. Breakfast was delicious and fun, talking to riders about their adventures yesterday. A handful had taken the “easier” option, a slightly shortened track that avoided the first two passes. It wasn’t easy at all though. A few (plus some of the staff) were planning on riding the famous Sella Ronda circuit today. It’s evidently one of those “Top 10 in the World” scenic cycling routes. Jem kindly made a track that combines tomorrow’s route to Cortina d’Ampezzo with the 3/4 of the Sella Ronda and I am thinking of taking that. It will be like yesterday but just a little shorter with a little less climbing. I’ll check the weather and my body tomorrow morning.

I felt like I wanted to get out of the bubble and just be outside a bit so I walked to Canazei on a forest track, had a look around town, and then took the river path back. What I really wanted to do was take a ride on one of the cable cars – it’s SO much fun in summer. But this is shoulder season and only one ski lift in the whole area was open, not one of the ones nearby. So I settled for a nice walk. The fresh mountain air felt great. It’s pretty quiet around here now, hard to imagine all the closed hotels and restaurants open and people everywhere.

Today was the big day when the Giro d’Italia takes on Cima Grappa that we climbed two days ago. We estimated they would hit that climb (after racing for over 100 km of a 219 km stage) around 1:30 so we gathered in the bar at the big TV to watch. It was really fun seeing just where we had been, “That’s where I had a coffee, that’s where we took off our jackets, that’s where the crazy guy waiting for the Giro gave me a salami sandwich, … etc.” They dispatched the entire climb in less than an hour, triple my pace with breaks. The descent was great to watch too. They are so smooth and fast through the turns. It looks like a pretty hard job though.

Rest days are tough but someone has to do this vital work

Later we went out for dinner in the village – not much was open but a number of us ended up at a restaurant that had pizza and pasta and we had a nice dinner. Nice rest day!

Tutti Dolomiti Day -1

I could get used to just hanging out in Verona, Italy. We had a nice breakfast in the hotel then assembled bikes. I put mine together then got dressed for riding but when I went to grab my bike 30 minutes later the front tire was flat. I ended up replacing the valve core and that seemed to fix it. I rode with my roommate-to-be Mike to a nearby bike shop to top off our tires to 60 psi and mine was still holding, so we went for a ride.

We rode the tour track for Stage 1, which took us over a couple of bridges, past the Verona Arena and then out of town. After all the traffic and traffic lights faded behind it felt so great just riding through the countryside. It was sunny and warm. After a while we left the route and headed up on a tiny country road where we saw some bikers descending. Through vineyards and tiny villages, so nice. We weren’t up for anything big so turned around after about 15 km. We rode back through the more touristy areas and made it back to the hotel. Just your basic shake-down cruise.

After a shower, lunch was just across the street where we found Kiwi Blair testing the local beers. We had pasta and large, cold beers – just great. Funny when the bartender asked if I wanted large or medium and I said grande, he showed me what that actually was, a giant one liter stoneware mug – I switched to medium! I took a bit of a nap after that but had the alarm set for 5pm so only slept a little. We had dinner warm-up beers back across the street, and met another rider from California, Keith. He was staying a different hotel, one that he picked because it was near a particular beer place. Of course we said, “Ok let’s go, where is this amazing beer place?”

After a nice 20 minute walk we arrived at the Santa Maria Craft Pub and it did not disappoint. They are serious about their beer and the bartender spoke English and set me up with an Italian IPA from near Milano that was absolutely great, maybe the best Italian beer I’ve ever had. My Balkan Boulevard buddy Lex joined and we were now seven. After that I tried ordering about the strangest looking beer on their draft menu, a lambic called 21 Con Sangiovese from Toscana (Tuscany). It was also a total winner.

It was after 8 when we finally left and walked around looking for a restaurant with an outdoor table that would fit 7 people. We found one by the interesting looking Torre dei Lamberti – I might have to go back tomorrow and go up it. On the menu they had a pizza with cherry tomatoes, fresh basil and buffalo mozzarella, all added after cooking. It tasted as good as it sounds and with a limoncello spritz, it was the perfect dinner. Since we didn’t really ride today, we skipped dessert and walked back by a bit after 10pm. All that and tomorrow is still another pre-tour day! Amo l’Italia!