16: Del Norte to Luder’s Campground
Strava: 101.9 km, 1754m, 7:22, 223 Shifts, 50.3 kph max
17: Luder’s Campground to Sargents
Strava: 77.8 km, 468m, 3:32, 179 shifts, 65 kph max on gravel
We packed up in our hotel rooms and loaded the bikes downstairs before 7. Right next door was Raisin’ Rye, a great bakery/coffee shop. We had sourdough bagels, pastries and drinks. The weather looked iffy after breakfast and a Harley rider we talked to was staying in town to avoid the forecasted rain.
But we headed out, quickly onto dirt, heading north. We passed a few Great Divide Mountain Bike Route signs, oriented in both directions. Uphill on soft, sandy double track, we had some spitting rain, strong winds, and once I was right in a dust devil, blasting my face and legs with small rocks – had to ride with eyes closed holding my breath. No I did not stop.
Then a big turn and suddenly we’re coasting with a giant tailwind. That lasted a while until a big turn left onto a paved road back into the wind. Uphill, and I had to replace my right shifter battery again, WTF?! It’s got to be a bad batch of batteries. Then a giant hot climb on dirt. We stopped halfway up for lunch. Then another paved section but into brutal wind, all of us sucking Wytze’s wheel for the duration. The sheer amount of time I’ve spent in that exact position in the last seven years …
All that was 85 km of prelude to the main event of the day. A monster climb up to our campground at over 3000m. We got water from people on the highway then headed up the dirt road directly into the wind. I’d rather forget the whole thing I guess. 13 km that took forever. We pulled into the campground, tired, and I was so happy but a little nervous about water. We probably had a liter left between the four of us. Now is a good time to give a big shout out to our friend Kirsten. Andrew, Wytze and I did the whole Andes Trail in South America with her in 2019. She did the SOBO version of this ride last year and her info helped us more than once, like detailing the trick to finding water in Luder’s Campground! Sure enough it worked just as she said.
There is a hidden little spring with cold clear water, although there are some little guys swimming around in it. You can get enough to fill the filter, repeat until done. It was so nice to cook up a big batch of soup, sourdough bread and cheese, then eight servings of mashed potatoes with tuna and garlic sliced up by Andrew. And drink a liter plus each of cold water, vs eat a bar and go to sleep!
For the first time, we’re in bear country here so we hung our food. It was a big day and I fell asleep fast and hard.
I woke up a couple of times in the night super thirsty, almost scary thirsty. But the second time I also had to pee so I guess I’m fine. Up at 6, we had oatmeal with a little banana and granola. We hit the road by 7:30 and what a pleasure that was. Gently downhill, no wind, just beautiful. After a while the wind did kick up, but not too bad.
Just before a short paved section on route 114, a nice lady gave us each a tangerine. Then we had a final 20 km section of dirt, mostly downhill, some super smooth where it felt perfectly safe to let it roll at 65 kph. Then we hit US route 50, and rode it another 20 km to Sargents. The tailwind and nice shoulder made it fine for cycling even though it’s a two lane highway with trucks going 65 mph.
We pulled into Tomichi Trading Post and sat down in the restaurant for lunch. It was a long relaxed time, nice food with infinite refills on drinks (except my IPA). After dessert I asked about a cabin and got us one with a bathroom. Showers felt so good as usual. We did laundry and just relaxed. That feels really good.
Around 5, after naps, we walked over and had a round of local IPAs and appetizers then ordered dinner with more beer. Our waitress was really a character and it makes me happy to see my non-American friends enjoying American people and things. To top it off I had a nice call with my mom in San Francisco. What a great day!
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