Rivarolo Canavese to Alessandria

Strava 114.6 km, 375m, 4:57, 192 shifts

I slept well in the modern hotel and we had a good breakfast at 8. We looked for a local bike shop but it was a figment of Google’s imagination. We rode off and soon connected with the Italy Unite gravel track which took small roads but often diverted onto farm tracks or gravel paths between fields of rice and barley.

We found a real bike shop along the way, out in the country, with a nice owner who wanted to know all about our route. When we told him about the Colle de Nivolet, he said “Maybe it would be better in reverse” meaning the way it was designed. Wytze got a replacement cleat for the one he lost on that climb and I got a cool looking rear light.

We powered on to Livorno Ferraris for drinks, then again with a lot more gravel to Casale Monferrato at about 80 km for lunch. We went pretty big, each ordering lunch then getting three dishes more to share.

It was warm but not really hot, high 20s. The last part was 35 km to Alessandria, again on a mix of paved roads and dirt tracks. Sometimes riding on grass, sometimes rocky gravel or dirt, with occasional mud or big puddles. I’d estimate we rode 30% offroad. It was 29° when we arrived and we immediately found a great bar called Esco bar. Four big 🍺 arrived and all was good. This cooled us off and we headed the final 900m to the apartment we had rented. We had to wait 20 minutes for the guy but he was very nice and even helped me carry my bike up the two flights. The apartment is nice, with Aircon and a washing machine, luxury. It feels like quite a deal at €25 per person.

After showers and laundry everything seems nicer. I wrote up this post then had a fun video chat with Katie at home in Santa Cruz. Then it was dinner time. It was sort of a repeat of yesterday, a very fancy place, elegant fine dining outdoors. I like these meals because they are so tasty but the servings are small. I am not yet needing more. And we’re not going overboard at all on alcohol.

Back at the apartment it was icy cold, then we noticed there are no blankets… Oh well, after hot nights, being cool is great.

Arvier to Rivarolo Cavarese

Strava 103.3 km, 2,186m, 9:30 elapsed, 255 shifts

Honestly, I was dreading this stage a bit. Right from the start there was the one climb of the day, nearly 2,000m up in 35 km. And there was a section we didn’t really understand – if we had I would’ve really been dreading it!

So yes there was a significant low point, when we had climbed for hours up a nice road that ended. The trail we had to take to continue looked difficult for hiking and was ridiculous with loaded bikes. But there were two real high points:

• Getting to the top of the pass, after persevering for a very long time. No pain no gain.
• Setting my all time max speed record for inside a tunnel! It was 3.5 km long and we cruised at 70 for a large part. Max speed 71.3. It was so steep but dry and well lit, amazing.

Right from last night’s hotel, I was using my lowest 38×52 gear. But finally we got to our road up the valley which was more reasonable, mostly 10% or less. After climbing 850m we stopped for a long session of drinks and snacks. I think it was over 90 minutes non-stop to that point. Then another 450m up to the end of the road. Looking up the trail was daunting to say the least. And it got even steeper and rockier above. Getting our loaded bikes up was an all-body workout for sure. It’s hard to describe this experience but it was definitely in my lifetime top 3 in terms of biking craziness.

After forever, we came out to a high point (snack time again) and from there it was so different. Not as rocky and actually rideable in parts. We were in a high valley, desolate and beautiful. We could ride more and more. Finally my Garmin said I just had 4.4 km to a road. And sure enough someone had built a road up there. We were at 2,500m by this point, higher than many passes in the Alps.

We rode by a lake, two refugios, saw lots of hikers, and then had a final climb up to the Colle de Nivolet, 2,625m, the highpoint of our whole trip. It was 3:00 and we had done one third of our distance for the day in about six and a half hours.

We added clothes for the long descent, took some photos and started down. It was steep and curvy but not crowded and quite fun. It didn’t take long to drop down 1,600m and we finally stopped at a little bar at 80 km for drinks. The final 25 km from there went quickly because it was still downhill. We had to detour from the route to get to our hotel. The route designers would’ve given us extra points for the special way we avoided riding the main road into town, a tiny, muddy gravel path that was much more rideable than earlier parts.

We checked in and I was relieved. Shower and laundry, so civilized! Soon we walked downtown for dinner. Wytze has a theory that we tested again: if there is an expensive highly rated restaurant in a small town, off the beaten path, it is good – or it will not stay in business. So we tried the one in town and it was a huge success. We ordered the four course meal with three paired wines and it was great, especially after the kind of day we had. I do wonder how normal people can eat like that.

What a day! And it’s only #2!

Bourg St Maurice, France to Arvier, Italy

Strava 76.4 km, 2,044m, 5:10, 169 shifts

September 1, 2024 is the day we’ve been waiting for since a year ago and it is finally here! We fell back into our old rhythm so easily. Breakfast was good then we set off at 8:30. It is so easy to pack when you have so few possessions. We rode through town, flat for maybe one km, then the big climb started. The Col du Petit-Saint-Bernard involves a 30 km climb up about 1,500m from the French side. First we switchbacked up 1,000m to a touristy town where we enjoyed our last French pastries and drinks.

The last 450m went quickly and we were suddenly on top. There was some special event going on so it was even more crowded than on a normal good weather weekend day. There were so many people, what a zoo. We only stayed for a couple of photos then headed down. There was a crappy band playing Superstition as we rode by.

We took the gravel option (rocky and slightly technical) for a while then back on the road. It was fast and easy to a town where we had a delicious lunch. It felt great to have no schedule, no one depending on us for anything.

After lunch there was another climb, 500m but pretty steep. The descent was amazing, so steep but a great surface. Cruising at nearly 80 with our bags… 😊 From the bottom we followed the gravel route which avoided the main road. It climbed so steeply I needed my 52 tooth gear. It took us up to a gorgeous dirt trail, with killer views. So worth it!

Then a big descent and back into the forest on single track. It wasn’t all rideable but nearly. We can see that the Italian course designers have no fear and we love the sense of adventure this brings to the riding.

Soon it was over and we were in our target town of Arvier. The hotel was easy to find and it’s big and nice but seemingly has no other guests? The owner said it was crazy yesterday. Yeah right. We sat outside with big beers enjoying the cool evening air.

After showers and laundry we had a fabulous dinner leaving the selection up to the waitress. My first course was smoked trout, and after that we all had homemade pasta with porcini mushrooms and interesting hay flavored gelato. They threw in some more courses and we had chilled local white wine. What a great first day!

I didn’t sleep well last night, too excited I guess. The alarm got me up at 6 and it only took a few minutes to pack. It was just getting light outside but just before we were ready to leave, the rain started. It lightened up and we headed out, loaded but wearing non-bike clothes. It was 11 km to Utrecht Central, smooth and quiet early on a Saturday morning.

We slipped off our wheels (me front only), removed our bags and put on the covers Wytze had. We took the earlier train at 7:30 and soon were at Rotterdam Central with 50 minutes for breakfast.

We found the Eurostar platform and the train arrived on time. It was pretty crowded but Wytze engineered space for two bikes in the luggage rack. Mine rode in the bar with two from a French couple.

We arrived a bit late in Paris but the transfer train from Gare du Nord to Gare du Lyon only took 10 minutes so we made it easily. After a little lunch we boarded the famous TGV, the French fast train. We took it almost three hours and it was stuffy and hot and the fastest I saw it go was 303 kph, not impressive.

At Chambéry-Challes-les-Eaux we had over an hour until our 5th and final train of the day. Across the street was a convenient bar with cold beer, that was relaxing.

Our final train was almost two hours, climbing up to 800m. At the station we reassembled our bikes and hung out with Daniel, our group of four now complete.

He showed us the hotel and after showers we went to a Senegalese restaurant he had booked for 7:30. It was very fitting since the last place I saw Daniel was in Senegal last fall. Dinner was slow and relaxed, very tasty with local IPA. Then it was time for bed after a long day.

Wytze was busy in the morning so Andrew and I had time off from riding. We did laundry and he built up his bike. After lunch Wytze was back and said we had to go riding, but of course didn’t say where to or how long. He just took off at his typical speed and we had to follow. It was pretty flat (no surprise) but there was some wind. We rode on bike paths (also no surprise) and along levees. Eventually we saw a big chimney by a river and Wytze said we could stop to visit an old brick-making factory. It had been closed down for quite a while but was still impressive.

Back on the cycles we had a second break in the cute old town of Wijk bij Duurstede. Don’t ask me how to pronounce it but it’s very nice and they have great ice cream there. After that we rode for quite a way including a rare thing: an ascent. It was maybe only 50m but still, that’s uncommon. It was climbing an old glacial moraine. Then we turned in a different direction. I asked Wytze what’s up and he said, “I thought we could visit my parents.” They are both 88, living in their own apartment in nice complex. They had just finished happy hour and we visited for half an hour before heading on. I had lost my mental directions so was just following but suddenly we turned into Wytze’s driveway. But we weren’t done; this was just a stop for warm clothes. We headed back down the road and bike path, 5 km to Teahouse Rhijnauwen, a beautiful outdoor restaurant in the middle of the forest. We met Wytze’s two sons and one of their partners for a long and relaxed dinner.

It was so un-American there it was amazing. There is a small parking lot for cars with a few but the bike parking! Row after row after row. We arrived late so had to go park in the 25th row or something. So many bikes. It was crowded and lively and at least they got beers and snacks for us quickly. We were warned that the pancakes would take an hour and I think that was about right. Mine was “Super Sem”, apples, tons of roasted shaved almonds, with hazel nuts. Powdered sugar on top, then add syrup. It was pretty big but looked thin so didn’t seem like a giant dinner but it was – I could barely eat one serving! Just delicious.

It was getting late so we headed home, blasting along at full speed in the dark on the deserted bike paths, so fun. Andrew had a light so it wasn’t too unsafe. My alarm is set for 6 tomorrow morning. We’ll have about 10 km to ride to the station, the real start of what we’re hoping will be an amazing adventure. La Bella Italia here we come!

Strava: 70.9 km, 153m, 2:50, 61 shifts

• Part 1: 30.78 km, 432m, 1:26, 85 shifts
• Part 2: 73.08 km, 676m, 3:13, 126 shifts

Today we wanted a bigger training ride so Wytze worked out a loop that went to Luxembourg. After a relaxed breakfast we took off and rode south. We got to the border at 28 km, and as soon as we started seeing houses and buildings noticed how much more upscale everything looked.

After riding through Luxembourg for a little while we got onto a rail trail, that we would end up taking a long way. It was scenic and there were tons of cyclists. We crossed back into Belgium, then later the bike path veered into Germany for just a minute and my phone said “Welcome to Germany” briefly.

We stopped in the town of St. Vith, another famous Battle of the Bulge site. We had lunch at a bakery, then continued along the rail trail. They speak German in St. Vith, vs French in all the nearby towns we had visited. Eventually we made it to Malmedy, then Stavelot. We turned off and headed up the hill, with a brief steep section, finishing up the ride before 5 pm. Instead of a shower, Wytze and I soaked in the cool hot tub eating grapes – very nice.

We had a few projects to do before leaving. I was assigned to build a set of shelves so Wytze would have a place to store his beers. There was chain-sawing of firewood too. Then we set out for Holland. We had dinner in Stavelot at a great outdoor Italian restaurant. I had the best ever smoked salmon pizza and another special local beer.

It was after 8 pm when we finally left and we didn’t make it home until after 11 pm. I slept most of the way. My body feels fine and I think I’m ready for the “heavier” riding to come, starting in three days.

We started the day early, getting up at Wytze’s house near Zeist, Netherlands at 6:30. He had a load of firewood to take to his country house in Belgium and we loaded our bikes too. The drive took almost three hours, then we finally got to see this place he bought 14 years ago and has renovated. It’s an old farm house that used to have live stock in the bottom, now made into a spacious, modern home. It is on a ridge with a nice view over hilly farmland. We lucked out on the weather too, warm but not hot, sunny and clear.

We started a fire in the outdoors hot tub for after our ride, unloaded the trailer, had brunch, then headed out on our bikes. Andrew hadn’t assembled his yet so was on a borrowed MTB. My bike felt great, perfect really. After just a few km we came to a downhill and suddenly I was going over 70 kph which felt wonderful. The roads are smooth, traffic is light, the terrain is hilly and the area has lots of cycling history. We rode around, ups and downs, and after an hour made it to La Gleize, another famous town from the Battle of the Bulge. We visited the December 1944 museum there. For a relatively small place they have a pretty big collection of German and American war items. After that it was 3 pm and time for lunch! There is a great restaurant in town called La Vert de Pommier where we each had “Salade Val Dieu” with pear and warm cheese, wow! It went really well with some local beers. Life seems great here.

We had another 25 km to ride, up a couple of hills, through more WWII-famous towns, and made it back around 6 pm. The fire had burned all the wood so I restarted it but the hot tub was already about 40°C, perfect. After showers we enjoyed it, then sat in the evening sun sipping beers, reflecting on our lucky circumstances. It was a great first day of modest cycling.

Strava: 52.04 km, 1,153m, 2:51, 123 shifts

Wytze was a hero and bought food for dinner. We had frittes, other potatoes, a giant omelette, salad, Belgian beer and Austrian wine. It was delicious eating outside watching night fall in the warm air, sans bugs. I know I’ll sleep well tonight.

Beau was visiting for the weekend before I left which was really fun. I had mostly finished packing by the time I picked him up from the airport so we could concentrate on having fun. Monday morning, though, I had to say good-bye for what will most likely be over 8 months. Katie drove me to the airport, with my boxed up bike. It’s always hard saying good-bye for these trips but at least this one is less than half as long as the last one. I’ll be back on October 5.

Check-in was super fast and easy, and for the first time ever, my bike flew for free. On United it just counts as an ordinary piece of luggage. I had an hour to kill at the gate then it was boarding time. Due to the rampant covid stories from the news and so many friends, I masked up with a N95 at the airport entrance and kept it on the whole time except for eating.

It was a non-stop flight, just under 10 hours, through the night, up and over Greenland and Iceland. I slept a couple of times, watched a couple of movies (Avengers End Game and First Man) and had three meals. As you approach Holland, you first see lots of windmills, way out to sea. Then finally the beach and then flat watery land with lots of canals.

Passport control took almost an hour but then when I got to the oversized baggage claim, my bike still wasn’t there. I could see it was “Nearby” in the Tile app, so didn’t worry and it came about 30 seconds later! The train is so convenient at Schiphol Airport because the station is right inside the airport. I had a simple ride, about an hour with one change of trains, then Wytze picked me up and whisked me to his house.

After lunch, we put my bike together then I took a nap before Andrew arrived. There was a nice party that evening with seven riders from our 2019 Andes Trail trip getting together. We had salmon and delicious pasta and salad, outdoors with beer and wine. After dessert and saying good-bye I could feel it was time for sleep, although it’s a strange time, 7 am at home.

It’s getting really close now! On Monday I’m flying to Holland to start this year’s European bike adventure. My bike is all packed and I guess I’m ready to go.

Andrew and I are flying to Amsterdam to stay with Wytze for a few days to prepare. On the 31st, we’ll spend the day on three trains going all the way to Bourg St. Maurice, France. I’m excited to be taking the TGV for the first time. We’ll meet Daniel and start riding the next morning. Our first ride takes us over the Col du Petit Saint-Barnard which is one I’ve never done. The Italian border is at the top of the pass. There’s nothing like 2,000m of climbing on the first day to alert our bodies and minds that the tour has begun!

It’s funny how easy packing is for a trip like this. I can check-in one bag which can be a bike box, so I have that plus a small carry-on. The bike box can be up to 23 kg, but mine is under 15 and that’s with my bike bags, tools, helmet and bike clothes. When you have to carry everything it’s pretty easy to pack light. Pants? Nope, no need.

I’m looking forward to enjoying the next couple of days. I packed up early so I can enjoy Beau’s visit. He was able to squeeze a couple of days in visiting Katie and me in Santa Cruz before he heads on to Los Angeles, the south Pacific and eventually back to Japan.

Today is a great day because it’s the day I bought a plane ticket to Europe for my next bike adventure. This year I’m joining three of my best riding buddies from last years Paris Dakar adventure. I’m flying to Amsterdam on August 27 and we’ll take the train to just north of the northern edge of Italy on August 31.

Unlike my recent bike adventures, this time we’re going self-supported. It will be very light-weight “credit card” touring. The route is on the adventurous side, with lots of dirt and gravel. It’s called Italy Unite Wild Trail. It’s about 2,000 km long with 35,000m climbing.

I love having big goals like this to plan for and look forward to, but the best part of this trip will be simply spending a month with the most amazing guys: Wytze, Andrew and Daniel. I’ve known Wytze and Andrew since 2019 when we met in Quito, Ecuador. I met Daniel in Paris last year. We’re from four different countries but we travel very well together!